A healthy boost for beauty

THE success of caffeine-free and sugar-free system, YouthH2O, is just one example of the rise of nutritional products in the U.S. personal care industry. Comprised of powerful South American organic superfoods organic camu (Myrciaria dubia), maca (Lepidium meyenii) and purple corn – is said to offer benefits such as weight loss, immunity protection and collagen production, according to the company. The one aspect that sets it apart from other items on the market? “It works,” according to the scientists behind it at Revival Labs, who added that retailer reorder rates are as high as 80%.

Although it’s difficult to get a hard sales figure on the nutricosmetics segment, Packaged Facts estimates that the four categories of consumer products with antioxidant content that fall within the scope of the market definition – foods, beverages, supplements and personal care/cosmetics – accounted for U.S. retail sales of $65 billion in 2011, 9% above the figure for 2010.

“Over the last several years, usage rates for supplements overall have remained fairly steady, while usage rates for antioxidant supplements have edged down slightly, reflecting in part the increasing availability of foods and beverages with high antioxidant claims,” noted Lisa Giordano, a market research analyst with Packaged Facts. “In the personal care category, as in the food and beverage categories, marketers have become exponentially more creative at blending antioxidants together, giving consumers the impression of more antioxidant power, and of cutting edge formulation.”

Healthy from head to toe

The fortification of skin, hair and nails is a cornerstone of the nutritional product category, and brands are constantly working to capture the attention of consumers at large. Consider Swisse Wellness, founded upon a belief in the importance of proactive health and wellbeing, which has made a $20-million commitment to fund global product research over the next five years. A top-selling multivitamin brand in Australia, the company has tapped Nicole Kidman as global ambassador to further draw attention to the brand.

“In an oversaturated beauty market, consumers are educating themselves on quality, evidence-based products,” noted Swisse Wellness executive VP Americas/international business director Ulrich Irgens, who is based in Chicago. “We see people researching products in advance and at the point of sale, some 70% are using smartphones in-store to research. They’re seeking more ethical and sustainable options, but are also seeking value – they want products that work.”

Another major player in the industry, Nu Skin Enterprises, Inc. launched a body shaping system as part of its ageLOC product portfolio, which focuses on providing nutritional and skin care solutions. Powered by Nu Skin’s exclusive anti-aging science, ageLOC TR90 was developed to enable consumers to begin to transform their body composition in just 90 days.

“Our research shows that many weight management programs focus on maximizing pounds lost, whether the weight comes from fat, muscle or both,” said Joseph Chang, Ph.D., chief scientific officer and executive vice president, product development. “In contrast, we are focusing our system on improving overall body composition – with the ideal of supporting the maintenance of lean muscle while promoting healthy, overall weight loss.”

Nu Skin plans regional introductions of the ageLOC TR90 system throughout 2014.

Meanwhile, David Kirsch, a fitness and wellness expert based in New York City, is seeing success with his nutritional products. While the three nutrients in his Ageless Defense – L-carnitine, alpha lipoic acid and L-carnosine – occur naturally in the body, their levels drop significantly and as we age. In combination, the three nutrients work to “fuel” your cells to optimize physical and mental performance, claimed the company, which also has a popular AM Daily Detox drink. It acts as a mini-cleanse for your body, flushing out free radicals with red wine grapes, 10 different berries, lycopene, resveratrol, and other vitamins and nutrients.

“Nutrition and beauty have gone hand in hand for years. It is a very exciting time right now because the public is becoming more aware of it,” said Dr. Stafford R. Broumand, a leading N.Y. plastic surgeon who has consulted with Mr. Kirsch “Some of the latest trends are taking supplements in powder form to achieve optimum health and skin rejuvenation.”

Even though many of these ingredients have been around for a long time, some are beginning to get more attention such as 5-HTP, added Dr. Broumand. “This helps to regulate your mood and keep you calm,” he told Happi.

Opus Skincare, also based in New York, is establishing a name for itself in the nutritional beauty category. Its BeautyScoop supplement has received a US patent (No. 8,329,642) and is said to be doctor-developed and clinically-proven to deliver long-lasting results for skin, hair and nails. The natural and vegetable-based nutritional supplement is formulated with peptides and essential lipids, reinforced with hyaluronic acid, key vitamins and minerals to assure maximum therapeutic benefits, according to the company. In double-blind clinical trials, 86% of participants noted improvement in skin, hair and nails within three weeks, Opus Skincare said.

Taut Shot, another new contender to the market, is an 80-calorie hydrolyzed marine collagen shot with the highest concentration of ingestible collagen on the market – 13,000mg per 50ml serving, according to the company. Its proprietary collagen formula contains Rapid Delivery System (RDS) hydrolyzed collagen peptide with a low molecular weight for rapid absorption.

Help for hair in distress

Fortifying lackluster or thinning tresses specifically is still a popular use for nutritional products in the beauty segment to give options to those who use traditional topical formulas.

The Healthy Hair Vitality Supplement from Bosley Professional Strength is promoted as “the first salon-only, comprehensive hair preservation regimen that helps maintain thicker, fuller-looking hair,” according to the company. With specialized formulations for men and women, the supplements target the unique needs of both genders.

The Men’s Formula for targets fine or thinning hair, weak hairlines or areas of low hair density. Key ingredients include saw palmetto that may help lower DHT levels; iodine to help nourish hair and follicles; vitamin E to improve blood circulation to the scalp and vitamin B6, said to inhibit DHT and may help avoid hair loss, eczema, psoriasis and dandruff.

Meanwhile, the Women’s Formula promotes fuller-looking, shiny hair, healthy-looking skin and stronger nails, according to the company. This supplement is fueled by horsetail extract to promote healthy hair growth; copper, an “important element” in the formation of both skin and hair; riboflavin for healthy hair, skin and nails; as well as cysteine for a strong formation of both skin and hair.

Another contender in the segment, Viviscal, is also making a name for itself for hair fortification. Its extra strength dietary supplement is formulated with 50% more of the active ingredient, AminoMar marine complex. This proprietary ingredient is said to only be found in the Viviscal line of products and is scientifically formulated to help nourish thinning hair and promote existing hair growth from within, during the Anagen phase of the hair growth cycle. It also features horsetail extract and is fortified with vitamin C derived from the acerola cherry, one of the richest sources of ascorbic acid available.

Antioxidants vs. acne

Improving skin texture is another common goal for those shopping for nutritional products. When a woman in her 30s or 40s develops acne, she may reach for the same remedies she relied on decades ago – but that’s a mistake because adult acne is different from teen acne, according to Dr. Whitney Bowe, a dermatologist with Advanced Dermatology in New York and a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at SUNY Downstate Medical Center. While many factors contribute to adult onset acne, including hormones, diet and yes, stress, research has also shown that oxidative stress, or inflammation, is one of the culprits, she contends.

In an analysis of several studies, Dr. Bowe found that decreased antioxidant levels are commonly found in adults with acne, as blood levels of antioxidant vitamins such as A, C and E are actually lower in people suffering from acne as compared to people who have clear skin. Studies have also found that people with acne have a higher burden of oxidative stress, as indicated by certain markers in the blood.

She explains that antioxidants can be delivered directly onto the skin as a serum, cream or lotion, or they can be indirectly delivered to the skin after going through the mouth and undergoing digestion. “In other words, you can incorporate more antioxidant-rich foods or beverages in your diet. For example, antioxidant-rich green tea can be found in a number of over-the-counter creams, but can also be sipped hot or cold,” she said. “Treating acne with antioxidants may address acne while at the same time reducing some of the signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles. This makes antioxidants especially attractive for the woman who suffers from acne and also sees fine lines beginning to form.”

Foods for sun protection

Nutritional products are even said to help ward off some of the most damaging effects of the sun. Recent studies reveal that omega-3 fatty acids not only fight off a multitude of illnesses, they also promote cell renewal, and may help protect against skin cancer. One such report published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition by researchers at the University of Manchester found that taking omega-3s regularly increased the skin’s immunity to sunlight, which may lower the risk of skin cancer over an individual’s lifetime.

“Omega-3 oils are now recognized as important to the health of our immune, nervous and cardiovascular systems. Exposure to ultraviolet light weakens the skin’s immune response,” said Oscar Hevia, a Coral Gables, FL dermatologist. “In this study, researchers were able to demonstrate that the immune response in the skin of those subjects who were taking omega-3 oils recovered much better after exposure to ultraviolet light. Nonetheless, this study did not look at the immune response to skin cancers specifically, but rather allergy-producing substances. Although encouraging that the immune system improved, there is no direct evidence in this study that regular intake of omega-3 oils will reduce the incidence of skin cancers in individuals.”

Total wellness

Consumers are clamoring for beauty supplements that benefit the whole body too, as seen with the new “multidimensional wellness companion” called Wakaya Perfection, which is now sold at prestige retailers.

This organic ginger is said to aid in digestion and soothe sore muscles, among other benefits. The hand-cultivated powder is USDA and ACO Certified organic ginger, is unique to the private Fijian island of Wakaya and was created by David H. Gilmour, founder of Fiji Water.

“I was delighted to discover Wakaya Perfection’s organic ginger products which offer so many therapeutic benefits; the bath soak relieves congestion, helps reduce inflammation, eases over-worked muscles and I find it helpful for jet-lag,” noted Nicky Kinnaird, founder of Space NK, London. “When ingested, ginger acts as a thermogenic, try adding it to your exercise water bottle to enhance your metabolism.”

The best is yet to come

The global Nutricosmetics market is projected to reach $4.24 billion by the end of 2017, Transparency Market Research reported. Technological developments and product innovation is contributing significantly to the growth of this market. Manufacturers are emphasizing on the development of natural and organic products as they are in great demand from consumers across the globe. 

“Although research and technology advance, the most successful brands will offer such sophistication and therapeutic value in more convenient and less complex formulations,” noted Paula Simpson, nutricosmetic formulation and branding expert and principal of Nutribloom Consulting. Fewer ingredients, simple branding and effective communication in how a nutricosmetic works within the body (over topical ones) will be critical to a brand’s success as well.

Ultimately, it’s the tangible benefits that will move the market the most, according to other industry insiders.

Dr. Nicholas Perricone, dermatologist and founder of Perricone MD, agrees that nutraceutical beauty is the wave of the future. He told Happi, “The best program works from the inside out as well as the outside in. Topicals that have great efficacy in reducing inflammation in the skin along with powerful targeted nutritional supplements with anti-inflammatory properties that can help rebuild the body at a cellular level will work synergistically to rejuvenate the body inside and out.” 

Edited from an article published July 10, 2013, “Supplementing Beauty” by Melissa Meisel, associate editor, Happi