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Nutricosmetic innovation in China

Source:Happi Asia Release Date:2014-06-27 82
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Nutricosmetics have grown in popularity as more and more people come to realize that physical beauty is very much about inner health

SKINCARE remains dynamic with new and ever-changing developments creating buzz. Nutricosmetics, among such innovations, have grown in popularity as more and more people come to realize that physical beauty is very much about inner health and what one ingests.

To Asians, the concept of food for health (rather than food for simple sustenance) is not new at all, of course; nor is the idea of food for beauty – particularly China, which is witnessing the swift development of its nutricosmetics industry. As Jiang Peizhen, deputy secretary general of the Shanghai Food Academy, pointed out that skin health involves every aspect of human body.

Skin health is influenced by genetic factors, health conditions, nutrition, living and working environment, and many other factors, said Ms. Jiang. While there is little to be done about one’s genes, Ms. Jiang says a carefully planned diet with sufficient nutrition intake can greatly improve skin condition.

Speaking at the 5th Nutricosmetics Innovation Conference organized by Ringier Events last year, Ms. Jiang also presented a paper “Difference between natural ingredients for nutricosmetics food in China and international Industry”. She was joined at the annual conference by other experts from governing associations and representatives from manufacturing and supply industries in China, who contributed a thorough overview of regulations, markets, new product development (NPD), and production technologies. One of the most revealing contrasted the industry

Presenting the current situation of nutricosmetics management in China, Ms. Jiang said the China State Food and Drug Administration (SFDA) has approved 27 claims for health food, among which four are authorized for nutricosmetic function – skin moisture improvement, oil improvement, acne removal, and age spot lightening. Currently there are two types of nutricosmetics products in China – one emphasizes nourishment and balancing while the other is based on the concept of improving digestion and excretion, she said.

“Therefore we notice that some of the nutricosmetics products help maintain or increase skin moisture and improve skin texture to achieve the desired moisturizing and skin care effects, and some balance hormonal activity to reduce or remove acne and lighten age spots,” Ms. Jiang noted.

Beauty food development

Collagen drinks

Collagen is the most widely used ingredient in NPD of nutricosmetics that claim moisturizing, firming, brightening, anti-wrinkle and nourishing properties. Findings from collagen research from the perspective of functional raw materials were presented by Leo Li, business development manager of Peptan Division, Rousselot China, and Ikebe Arihiro, marketing manager of Peptide Division, Nitta Gelatin Inc.

Peptan collagen peptides, manufactured in Rousselot’s French facilities, is already used in numerous anti-ageing products worldwide. A gentle enzymatic process ensures optimum performance of these collagen peptides in anti-ageing products, where its incorporation is simplified by its neutral taste profile, color and odor, Mr. Li said.

Wellnex collagen peptides from Nitta Gelatin are free from additives and preservatives, and used in many healthy skin-enhancing products. Studies show that the application of 5g over 8 weeks can help eliminate spots created by damage from harmful UV rays and lead to a clearer complexion, as well as improve skin structure and a higher level of moisture, Mr. Arihiro said.

Yuan Lihong, R&D director of Wuhan Tallyho Biotechnology, suggests that protein materials can offer more than skin and bone health. In her paper “Research and Application of Protein Module in Beauty Food”, proposed some new ideas, including products that can help address hormonal function and improve immunity. 

Two natural functional materials – wasabi from Alishan in Taiwan, and aequorin, a photoprotein from the Aequorea victoria jellyfish, were also presented by Wang Wenzhao, director of Efficacy Verification Lab, TCI Co., Ltd. In her presentation, “Power for Beautiful Skin from Peaceful Mountain and Pure Ocean”, she introduced antioxidant effect of wasabi extract has been verified with several patents; and aequorin obtained through a low temperature extraction process is proven quite effective in skin moisturizing and immune-regulation.

From concept to product

One principle for the application of innovative ingredients and materials in nutricosmetics food is validation of safety. In fact, all functional compositions must be proven safe before they are approved to legal use.

The allowable daily intake (ADI) must be set for each specific product, as the excessive intake may cause damage to health, cautioned Professor Zhen Jianxian from South China University of Technology. He proposes that the level of the ingredient found therapeutic in 50 percent of the group in which it is tested (ED50) or median effective dose (MED) be established for active ingredients used in functional foods.

“Unfortunately, for most functional ingredients, there is hardly any ED50 and MED index for reference. Detailed usage of certain functional ingredient in certain functional food is determined only according to research and production experience and efficacy evaluation. The establishment and evaluation of ED50 and MED index are an urgent and essential task in functional food research,” Professor Zhen said.

Manufacturers must conduct extensive market research to gauge demand and customer needs to make sure that their final product stands out in the highly competitive global market, said Unilever China research manager Jason Gu. It is vitally important to understand the forces moving the fast moving consumers goods (FMCG) market, he said, especially when entering a completely new distribution channel.

To learn more about trends, innovations and technology in beauty and skin care, join the Asia Personal Care Summit on October 8 & 9, 2014, in Jakarta, Indonesia. Best Seller
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