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| ‘‘As a cosmetic scientist developing a product, it is important to think all the time not only of the Science, but also from the Science to the Market’ — Dr. Gérard Redziniak
Inventor and Scientific Consultant Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals | |
As if these were not enough to keep him busy, Dr. Redziniak still remains very active in the Cosmetic and Cosmeceutical fields as an inventor and scientific consultant. He continues to develop different concepts, actives, vector systems and innovative formulations in anti-aging, whitening, acne, atopic skin, baby products for international companies and public organizations. To top it all, he also involves himself in press relation and scientific communications for Product Valorization and Marketing, which may be why in spite of his busy schedule, Dr. Redziniak sat down with Happi Asia to give us an idea of his creative approach to his scientific craft.
What are your priorities when selecting new ingredients/technologies for products?
When I select a new ingredient my strategy is very clear and simple.
First, I start to analyze the need and the destabilization process of the skin, such as hydration, seborrhea, wrinkle, redness, spots, and look at the cell metabolism ? keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts. This approach will define specific “key molecules” that are missing or in excess.
The second step is to look for ingredients that can modify the skin cells involved in metabolism, like peptides and lipopeptides from biochemistry; glyco-structures obtained by biotechnology, such as glycol-polyphenols and polysaccharides; and natural compounds and extracts from plant or marine origins. For compounds extraction, I favor ecological processes and technologies like supercritical CO2 and molecular distillation.
The final step is to obtain a very good technical dossier from the supplier from whom I detect an ingredient that answers to my first two steps. The dossier has to be complete with all the tolerance and clinical data to insure the good use of this ingredient in my formulation.
We notice part of your work now is focused on bioscience and cosmeceuticals. How do you think bioscience can help push the advancement of cosmeceutical R&D?
Bioscience has always been in my research strategy. I started in skin cell culture and cutaneous models for cosmetics at the beginning of the 1980s when I was associated with Dior. These models are now very well known and can help for a better knowledge.
For example, the cell dialogue between keratinocytes (epidermal cells) and fibroblasts (dermal cells). This technology is used in Matriscience, an R&D company in Paris, where I am a scientific consultant, to develop new strategy and molecules in skin wound healing and atopic skin.
Very interesting data prove that some molecules can directly act on epidermal cells. After the epidermal cells produce messenger molecules, somewhat like a phone “SMS”, which activate the dermal cells.
Innovation and sustainability are buzzwords in today’s cosmetic industry. How do you define them? In your opinion, how can manufacturers achieve them?
Innovation and Sustainability are not only buzzwords, but a key strategy not only for the cosmetic industry, but also for all industries. To my mind, there can be no real innovation without sustainable development, and vice versa.
This is the future, this is our future.
The Cosmetic Industry is probably the first industry which is driving and including so well the fundamental aspects of Nature, Humanity and the Respect for Life.
Lots of French manufacturers are deeply involved in this way; the building of a close human and ecological relationship at all levels of product development. All departments are involved in the industrial process. This approach is successful because all the people in the company – from the CEO to the employees – are introduced to and involved in the initiative.
As a senior expert, what do you think are the key advancements and challenges affecting today’s industry?
A good cosmetic product which answers perfectly a consumer’s need is based on three fundamental technical pillars: the Sensory, the Safety, and the Efficacy.
The challenge for today’s industry remains the same, which is to manage and to associate all these parameters.
A cosmetic or a cosmeceutical needs time to be effective on or in the skin.
A product without the right sensory attributes – odor, touch, color – will not be appreciated by the consumer and will be rejected before there is even biological action.
Efficiency needs time. Sensory is immediate!
What major trends do you think will be driving the industry in future?
Different trends will be driving the industry in future. These are:
● A double approach of “In and Out” with both oral and topical products. It is clear that the combined action will give better results at the Skin and Well-Being levels.
● Products that act with visible light (LED) and formulation products that are activated by invisible light, or what we call “photo-biomodulation”. Cosmetics development will become a “quantum skin science”!
● Multisensory combination, where from the package to the formulation, the product has to stimulate the senses!
What do you think of the differences between China and oversea cosmetic markets? When it comes to product development, how much adaptation needs to be made to meet local demands?
When you think of cosmetics, you have to think first about skin sensitivities, and also the social and cultural factors. It explains why the Chinese market is more focused on whitening and anti-irritating products while western consumers are more focused on moisturizing and anti-ageing products. It explains also why Chinese people prefer using light and vanishing texture, as well as low fragrance products.
China is today a very big market for cosmetics that is developing very fast, but also need to be very reactive. Compared to Europe, the life cycle of a product is much shorter. So in regard of R&D, once you identified a need, work step which has to be carried out by a strong marketing team, the time for development should be very fast, what should not of course sacrifice quality.
In China, there is a preference for natural products, which has to be approached through Traditional Chinese Medicine, which is an important part of the Chinese culture. So we combine Chinese herbs with other extracts and compounds to offer the most efficient and authentic products for the consumer.
Any interesting working experience that you would like to share with us?
When I was manager at Dior Research Department I observed in 1981 that liposomes were very good nanovehicles to deliver active ingredients to different skin cells. The developed product around this scientific discovery was called “CAPTURE”, a nice gel-serum done by a very good formulator called Brigitte N. After its launch in 1986, the product was immediately a success.
Why? Not only because of the scientific approach, the immediate sensory effect and the long-term efficacy, but also through a simple story in three words: “CAPTURE, CAPTURE and CAPTURE”. This story was used at all the levels of the company and all around the world: CAPTURE because the liposomes capture the actives. CAPTURE because the cells capture the liposomes. CAPTURE because the skin captures its youth.
This experience was very useful for me. I use it all the time during my scientific and cosmetic consultancy.
It is important when you develop a product to think all the time “from the Science to the Market”. It is sometimes difficult for a cosmetic scientist to clearly explain his approach to marketing people. It is my job to translate, to smoothen the relations.
“SIMPLIFY to SIMPLY FLY” is the way for the development and a cosmetic product success!
