Stimulate your senses at the new Fragrance Zone

SCENT, or a lack of it, is an area beauty brands can’t afford to ignore when bringing new products to market.
A brand’s scent is its “DNA” – the one thing that truly sets it apart from competitors.

It has the power to stir memories, evoke emotions and create moods.  Beauty companies understand its role in communicating a premium position and even efficacy.

Research this year by scientists at Rockefeller University in New York City, revealed that the 400 olfactory receptors in our nose can detect upwards of a trillion different aromas – rather more than the 10,000 previously thought possible – putting our sense of smell ahead of our ability to hear and see.

To capitalize on this extraordinary sense, each year between 60,000 and 80,000 unique propriety fragrance blends are created from between 50 to 250 ingredients drawn from a palate of 3,000 or so essential oils, natural aromatics and complex molecules created by the fragrance industry. Around half of those fragrances are created for the personal care industry, according to the International Fragrance Association.

The new Fragrance Zone at in-cosmetics Asia 2104 is designed to help visitors discover the latest products and technologies from a number of fragrance suppliers offering comprehensive service and expert solutions. Materials suppliers, including specialist scent and flavor manufacturers Iberchem in Spain and O’Laughlin Industries from Hong Kong, will share their knowledge and expertise, plus be on hand to offer New Product Development (NPD) solutions.

Fragrance expertise

Adding fragrance to beauty products is a delicate business. There are technical and formulation challenges including understanding stability, absorption and evaporation, while product safety and efficacy are vital to ensure customer satisfaction.

One of the major challenges facing all global beauty and fragrance manufacturers is the expected clampdown on some traditionally used ingredients now considered to be allergens. Both in the US and Europe, legislation is either in place or on the horizon, bringing in tougher fragrance ingredient rules and/or labelling.

All eyes are now on Europe as the European Commission has proposed tighter regulations including a series of bans, labelling requirements and research projects aimed at protecting consumers from allergies. It wants to drastically cut the use of many natural ingredients found in perfumes, on the basis that one to three percent of the EU population may be allergic or may become allergic to them. If adopted, the proposals could see a ban on popular perfume ingredients such as oak moss and tree moss and restrictions on the concentration of 12 substances – including citral, found in lemon and tangerine oils; coumarin, found in tropical tonka beans; and eugenol, found in rose oil – to 0.01% of the finished product.

The EU executive is also proposing to ban HICC, a synthetic molecule which replicates the lily of the valley aroma and widely used by perfume makers and significantly lengthen the list of molecules and ingredients perfume makers have to label on the packaging to warn potentially sensitive users. 
The result of the proposals and public consultation are expected before the end of the year, and if adopted will have consequences for all fragrance manufacturers.

Scent is a cultural issue

While in many Western countries fragrance is taken for granted, latest research from Mintel, TGI Data – part of Kantar Media, and Euromonitor, points to significant differences in fragrance use around the world.

TGI reports that in Europe, Brazil, Russia and the USA more than three quarters of the population use fragrances such as perfumes, EdTs and EdPs, in Middle Eastern countries this reduces to half, while Asian countries, such as China and Japan, the fine fragrance category is minimal and in many cases only used by the elite. In China, it says, the tradition of wearing a fragrance just for its scent does not exist, citing that in 2013 only 4% of adult Chinese living in urban areas used deodorants. However, it does note that the demand for perfume is slowly being developed by global companies entering the market. Perfume use in China is generally reserved for the higher social classes, mostly driven by young women (15- to 34-year olds).

And Euromonitor stresses that although Japan has one of the biggest markets for beauty and personal care, and carries one of the most developed and mature cosmetics markets around the world, fragrance per se is not important. It points out that the Japanese tradition of striving for harmony with their surroundings and fellow citizens might discourage them from wearing strongly-perfumed products.

Emmanuelle Moeglin, Global Fragrance and Personal Care analyst at Mintel, who will present at in-cosmetics Asia, says while the culture in the region might make it difficult for fine fragrance houses to expand, personal and skincare manufacturers can take advantage of the Asian love of delicately-scented cosmetics and beauty products.
She adds the global fragrance market was estimated at nearly $30 billion in 2013, with Indonesia, India and Viet Nam among the fastest growing markets.

“In countries like India, China and Viet Nam, where the middle class is growing rapidly and with it the popularity of aspirational Western lifestyles, international brands have potential to grow their fragrance business from scratch.”

And Ms Moeglin points to South Korea where fragrance is turning up in growing numbers in department and specialty stores and many of the Korean skincare and color cosmetics brands now have matching fragrances.

She confirms that while perfumes are not frequently used by many Asian consumers, subtly scented products are well accepted. “International brands will introduce new formats and ancillaries to lure consumers into the fragrance category and then encourage them to trade up to EdPs and EdTs.” And she points to floral water in China, which is used by 52% of Chinese fragrance consumers. It promises to reduce stickiness and itchiness for a healthy, refreshing and comfortable result, which, she says, means products that can combine pleasant smells with other benefits will help brands appeal to wary consumers.

Fresh and fruity

Rhubarb, mint and tea are just three scents set to influence the global markets next year according to fragrance specialist Seven Scent. Its bi-annual Fragrance Trends Report expects the emphasis to be on fresh and natural ingredients driving demand. For this coming season it has already predicted the return of the rose with velvety and spicy fragrances, scents which have their roots in spirits – with the gin-like notes from juniper berries and smoky aromas from whisky and rum, and rich scents using patchouli and amber.

Commenting on the role of scent in product development, Sarah Gibson, exhibition director, in-cosmetics Asia, says: “Adding fragrance to a product is one of the most technical aspects of NPD. When you also factor in the issues that must be taken into consideration - current and potential legislation – both for ingredients and labelling, and cultural differences not only between Asia and the rest of the world, but also amongst Asian countries, then you realize scent is a complex consideration, requiring careful thought and expert application.

“The new Fragrance Zone at this year’s show will help visitors navigate this minefield with leading fragrance industry players on hand to give consultation and demonstrate latest trends.”

On the trail of Japan

In addition to the fragrance focus, this year’s in-cosmetics Asia turns to one of the most influential countries in the Beauty market: Japan, the world’s 4th largest cosmetics market with sales valued at USD 39 billion. Renowned for quality ingredients and innovative finished products, Japan is also famous for its ritualistic, purifying and trend-setting beauty routines.

Visitors intent on getting a good understanding of how Japan is shaping today’s cosmetics and personal care market can follow the Japan Product Trail, which will lead them to exhibitor stands where these innovations will be displayed. And, of course, a dedicated Japan Pavilion will allow visitors to obtain vital information on the latest applications and techniques.

Attendees can also hear from experts in the Marketing Trends Presentations where sessions will examine the country’s leading growth areas – from natural beauty formulas and eco packages to all-in-one products, and their approach to anti-aging. It’s also important not to forget that Japanese men are almost as interested in skincare as their female counterparts, another topic set to be explored during this learning program.

Fragrance Zone at in-cosmetics Asia 2014  Halls 101-103, BITEC ?Bangkok, Thailand Organizer: Reed Exhibitions Limited T: +44 20 8271 2146 ?E: incosasia.helpline@reedexpo.co.uk