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Source:Ringier Personalcare Release Date:2015-07-01 719
Personal Care
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Today's skin care formulas incorporate active ingredients for anti-aging and brightening benefits, writes HAPPI associate editor MELISSA MEISEL

ACTIVE ingredients are, well, active! They can do anything from erase years off the face, protect skin from the sun, regenerate cells or lighten pigmentation, noted Dr. Eric Schweiger, founding dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group, New York, NY. Today, these beauty-boosting benefits aren't limited to the dermatologist's office; they can be found on department store counters, drugstore shelves and mass merchandiser aisles.

Active ingredients such as peptides, botanical extracts and antioxidants are also popular right now in skin care, noted Jeff Murad, vice president of new product development, Murad, El Segundo, CA. "We are seeing a trend toward using ingredients to boost the skin's natural healing processes – such as stimulating the skin's production of endogenous antioxidants, or boosting natural hyaluronic acid as opposed to or in addition to simply applying synthetic hyaluronic acid to the skin," he explained, adding that the skin brightening trend that began in Asia is gaining ground in the West as well.

Shoppers want it all, they want it now and they want it without "issues," added Dr. Craig Kraffert, president of Amarte, San Francisco. "Consumers are looking for products that brighten, tighten, smooth, refine, perfect and protect," he said. "Because of this consumer mindset, setting proper expectations is important. There are limits to what even the best skin care products can accomplish."

Anti-aging actives leading the charge

Actives that aim to turn back the clock still capture the lion's share of skin care launches last season, as seen in recent rollouts in both drugstores and department stores.

Inspired by years of research in skin cell biology, the latest creation at L'Oréal is the L'Oréal Paris Age Perfect Cell Renewal Collection – formulated to aid in stimulating surface skin cell renewal at a time when the natural action is most prone to begin diminishing on its own. The formulas contain Cicer arietnimum seed extract and Vigna aconitifolia seed extract, which are naturally derived ingredients known to boost energy metabolism of the epidermis and, in turn, help stimulate skin's renewal, according to the company.

Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Crème, an advanced multi-tasking skin care cream developed by Estée Lauder in 2011 to address a specific "modern woman's desire", has now expandsed into the eye area, with the introduction of its Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Eye Balm. Leveraging the unprecedented combination of Estée Lauder's proprietary IntuiGen Technology to revitalize the look of skin, an exclusive new Triple Nourishing Complex to nourish the eye area and an advanced SIRT-1 Technology to rejuvenate the look of skin, the eye balm is said to significantly reduce the look of multiple key signs of aging around the eye area.

IntuiGen, inspired by research in the field of epigenetics, supports skin's natural activation of Nrf2. Naturally derived from black bamboo extract, this innovative technology helps support skin cells in their natural age-resisting functions. The company also introduced Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Sculpting/Refinishing Dual Infusion. Two elixirs, sealed apart to preserve intense potency, come together upon application to dramatically transform every facet of skin for a more sculpted, more refined, more luminous look. In the Golden Vial, a black diamond truffle extract is ingeniously blended with an extraordinary technology breakthrough that helps preserve and restore skin density, suppleness and bounce. In the Platinum Vial, a high potency blend of skin refinishers gently resurfaces, retextures and smooths skin.

Other Estée Lauder mainstays churning out innovations with actives last season include Elemis and Clinique. Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Ultra Rich, which debuted agoin November, is clinically proven to intensely moisturize skin for up to 24 hours and reduce the depth of wrinkles and improve skin firmness, tone and hydration in just 15 days. Featuring the unique marine algae Padina pavonica and rich in moisturizing and restructuring essential fatty acids, amino acids, vitamins (B1, B2, B12, C, E) and free radical scavengers, such as Gingko biloba, the driest and most dehydrated of skin is left nourished and comforted, contends the company. Meanwhile, this year, Clinique launched Repairwear Sculpting Night Cream for the face and neck. It boasts "8 potent ingredients in 8 weeks to a more sculpted look" in the campaign. Actives include numerous extracts: Centella asiatica, Coleus barbatus and white birch.
Competitor Peter Thomas Roth is bulking up its Un-Wrinkle range with Un-Wrinkle Fast-Acting Serum. According to the company, this targeted wrinkle treatment effectively smooths, fills, plumps and diffuses the appearance of deep wrinkles and fine lines. Active 5% snail conopeptide mimics the potent muscle-relaxing effect of cone snail venom to gently and visibly freeze the look of the most stubborn deep wrinkles. The formula includes Inyline at 5%, SNAP-8 at 10% and Argilene at 5%.

Other launches from the brand are a 24K Gold Pure Luxury Lift & Firm Mask, infused with pure 24K gold and colloidal gold to help lift and firm skin and impart an opulent, holiday-worthy glow, caffeine helps tighten and firm the appearance of skin while peridot, a gemstone rich in magnesium, re-energizes and helps reduce the aging effects of stress; as well as a Mega-Rich Anti-Aging Sleeping Mask fueled by Proprietary Firma-CELL-4 which contains four different molecular size peptides: Syn-Coll, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and neuropeptide Argireline to help firm, tone, smooth and clarify the look of skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and the severity of deep wrinkles for younger looking skin. Sepi-Calm S helps reduce irritation. And for those who want to carry autumn flavors into the winter, the Pumpkin Enzyme Mask exfoliates with pumpkin enzyme, peels with alpha hydroxy acid and polishes with aluminum oxide.

Men's line Anthony also incorporates active acids into its newest SKU, Anthony High Performance Glycolic Serum. This anti-aging and lifting serum is infused with three key peptides that work to instantly plump and relax deep lines and wrinkles. Buffered AHAs work to correct the appearance of sagging skin and improve the skin's overall health and texture, according to the company. Algae extract helps repair and hydrate to jumpstart the skin's rejuvenation process, as cell turnover rate slows with age.

Replere Skincare utilizes exfoliating actives such as alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids and salicylic acid in its Replere Deep Clean & Clarify Face Wash and Replere Pore Minimize & Mattify Skin Tonic.

Avon is also amping up its anti-aging offerings with the Anew Vitale collection. Billed as the first-ever skin care line developed with Avon's groundbreaking VitaTone Complex Technology, a unique and exclusive blend of patented and patent-pending active ingredients and peptides, it is said to help combat the visible effects of stress and fatigue on skin, even skin tone and improve skin's vitality. The Anew Vitale Cleanser, Night Cream, Day Cream with SPF 25 and Eye Gel Cream are formulated to deliver a boost of the VitaTone Complex for even-toned, radiant, vibrant-looking skin in just one week. The appearance of dullness and fatigue virtually disappears.

The company also recently launched Anew Clinical Absolute Even Dark Circle Corrector, formulated with Shadow Erase Complex Technology and includes ingredients like kudzu root extract and fennel fruit extract.

In anti-aging formulations, the most popular actives are the ones that create fast plumping effects in the epidermis. According to Ben Johnson, MD, CEO, Osmosis Pur Medical Skincare based in Evergreen, CO, these include most peptides, glycosaminoglycans and inflammation-inducing ingredients like AHAs. "Consumers have become accustomed to rapid visible results and continue to buy these products on the false story that they actually make the skin younger because the epidermal plumping makes them think the ‘science' must be working," he pointed out. "The benefit is a temporary improvement in fine lines primarily. Skin health is not affected."

We all know that retinol has long been a go-to ingredient for skin-perfecting and anti-aging properties. Exuviance has upped the ante on a retinol formulation with the invention of Super Retinol Concentrate, specifically created to defy gravity for superior, visible lifting and firming results. Super Retinol Concentrate features patented NeoGlucosamine, clinically proven to work synergistically with retinol, amplifying results while delivering a gradual, time-released infusion of pure retinol in a microencapsulated form for maximum benefits with minimized irritation.

Retinol is back in the spotlight, thanks to the newest Mary Kay TimeWise Repair innovation that combines the power of encapsulated retinol, the visible plumping action of encapsulated hyaluronic acid, and flexible elastomers to deliver a variety of benefits. According to Mary Kay, Volu-Fill Deep Wrinkle Filler significantly impacts the appearance of all six wrinkle zones: forehead creases, between-the-brow creases, crow's feet, smile lines, vertical lip lines and marionette lines. Encapsulated hyaluronic acid acts as a moisture magnet, to help deep wrinkles appear visibly plumped.

Whether it's loss of firmness or an aging complexion, powerful active ingredients are delivered to skin via Le Mieux's new facial serums. Formulated with hyaluronic acid, rather than water, as a base, each serum plumps and moisturizes due to the ingredient binding water molecules up to 1,000 times its weight. The brand's Transform & Perfect Retinol Serum features 0.5% retinol to resurface and tighten, macadamia nut oil to help calm, soothe, hydrate and tone, and ceramides and botanical extracts to soothe and restore suppleness.

Discoloration and acne

Fading dark spots and busting bumps are also a key driver in the skin care market – and once again, actives are imperative. In mass, Olay is leading the way with its new ProX By Olay Nightly Purifying Micro-Peel. Guided by the skin dermatology expertise of the ProX Global Derm Alliance and leveraging research from AsiaOlay's Genomics analysis of young skin to aged skin, the ProX by Olay Nightly Purifying Micro-Peel was created to tighten and renew skin nightly thus delivering healthier, younger-looking skin over time. This triple-acid (glycolic, lactic and citric) micropeel gently strips away dead, dull surface layers in a one-step product.

Also popular is Lumene, and its latest rollout is Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair Tone Corrector. The formula is said to brighten skin on application with light-diffusing pigments that reveal skin's radiance while evening tone. Part of the new anti-aging Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair line, the serum provides anti-aging through unique cloudberry stem cell technology developed from the Arctic Cloudberry, a powerful Arctic resource rich in antioxidants. The Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair Tone Corrector brightens the skin and lightens dark spots with octadecenediodic acid, a safe skin brightening agent, which regulates melanin production, while light-diffusing pigments give your skin an immediate glow.

In the prestige channel, Estée Lauder's new Nutritious Rosy Prism is billed as the world's first high-performance ritual proven to visibly reduce and help prevent the look of a yellow skin tone. It is fueled by proprietary new Rosy Prism Technology featuring pink peony extract as well as antioxidant-rich pomegranate nectar.

Targeting the rising mask-buying clientele, Dr. Jart presents Dr. Jart+ Prescriptment Masks, a range of five specialized sheet masks individually designed to treat common skin care concerns: dehydration, sagging, dullness, blackheads and enlarged pores. Harnessing the power of actives, the Brightening Infusion Mask moisturizes and brightens due to its hydrogel design that allows for ingredients such as galactomyces fermented extract and brightening vitamin C derivatives to quickly absorb into the skin, also improving complexion and skin texture. Also from Dr. Jart is Pore Minimalist Mask that addresses pimples, enlarged pores and excess sebum production. The black charcoal sheet mask contains gentle purifying active ingredients such as sulfur, Korean charcoal and Moroccan lava clay to deeply cleanse and draw out impurities without causing irritation, while additional herbal extracts tighten and purify pores to complete the treatment. The three-ply structure also effectively adheres and removes sebum, allowing the serum to penetrate deeper into the skin.

Valeant Pharmaceuticals OTC brand Acne Free-has expanded its current roster of cleansing and treatment products with three new additions: AcneFree Energizing Acne Wash & Scrub, AcneFree Energizing Acne Cleanser and AcneFree Energizing 3-in-1 Acne Wipes. Each oil-free product features orange and mint extracts, and citrus (orange peel oil) to energize senses and help clear acne, said the company. But the secret weapon in the formulations for the scrubs and the cleanser (not the wipes) is 2.5% Advanced Micro-Benzoyl Peroxide. It's micro-encapsulated, which allows the benzoyl peroxide to continuously release over time. This means the acne treatment medication penetrates deeply into pores and works longer than traditional benzoyl peroxide.

With increasingly busy lifestyles, it's not just the ingredients, but the sum of their parts, that are big in skin care right now.

"Obviously BB and CC Creams have spoken to consumer's desire to have products that offer multiple benefits – and are truly efficacious on each of their multi-step claims," said Tyler Steele, AVP-marketing, La Roche-Posay, New York, NY. "A high demand persists for single or multipurpose products offering improved skin hydration or general anti-aging benefits."

Mr. Steele noted that consumers are looking for multifunctional actives, which deliver both immediate effects and sustained, long-term results. "Daily preventative treatments containing UV filters or antioxidants, or both, remain important," he added. "Because immediate results are always desired in beauty, light reflecting technologies that immediately blur skin imperfections and create a flawless looking complexion remain popular."

Targeting those with rosacea, La Roche-Posay's newest creation is Rosaliac CC Creme, featuring active ingredients octinoxate 3%, octisalate 3.5%, octocrylene 4.5% and titanium dioxide 6.2%. It is billed as the first OTC redness-correcting CC cream.

Dry skin? Bring it on. Repêchage Vita Cura Triple Action Nutrí Créme With Phyto Actives contains proprietary EcoCert seaweed extracts with 18 amino acids, 12 vitamins and 42 trace elements and minerals that enrich the skin to help smooth the appearance of wrinkles. Glycolic acid reveals younger-looking skin, while organic aloe vera soothes and calms. "Consumers are looking for natural ingredients to address common skin concerns, and treat their skin type," noted Lydia Sarfati, Repêchage CEO and founder, Secaucus, NJ. "Seaweed is wonderful, as it contains hydrating properties and is great for all skin types."

Arbonne is "boosting" its active body care offerings with the new Intelligence Genius Booster Serum for Body. According to the company, this lightweight, concentrated serum absorbs quickly to hydrate, illuminate and improve the look of skin firmness. The high-performance formula includes a PBR+ complex, a mix of Arbonne's proprietary phytinol, bakuchiol and retinoid that brightens skin and keeps it looking refreshed and toned. Add a few drops to your favorite body moisturizer to boost benefits or use this luxurious serum by itself to enhance skin's natural radiance, according to Arbonne.

"Active ingredients in demand include plant actives that help regulate our natural biological pathway for certain desired effects. Some examples include wanting healthier, less wrinkled skin, vibrant hair and a stronger body at a cellular, genomic level," said Arbonne chief scientific officer Dr. Peter Matravers, PharmD, Irvine, CA. "We introduced Arbonne Intelligence Genius Booster Serum for Body that includes key actives from a fraction of alfalfa and chicory (to create a retinoid effect that would otherwise require synthetic retinol) and the active bakuchiol, which is from the bakuchi seed. This product is a great example of the use of actives from plants that can deliver results in a retinoid formula – in great demand in the skin care arena."

Looking into 2015

Continued innovation is key when it comes to the future of actives. According to Dr. Matravers of Arbonne, demand will be for a more biological, multi-pathway approach to product development. "Instead of localized, spot treatment, such as bleaching a portion of skin to make it lighter, consumers will look for a bigger picture approach," he explained. "This means creating products that signal various parts of the body system, inside and out, to perform results and renew problem areas."

Murad agrees that multifunctional products will lead the way in skin care – a trend that began with BB creams and continues to grow and spread to other product categories.

According to Replere founder, Dr. Debbie Palmer, natural antioxidants remain on-trend, but in more potent forms and in combination with other products that we use daily – makeup, lotions, creams, shampoo, conditioners, and hairspray, to name a few.

All in all, trends follow the ever-changing needs of the consumer. According to Mr. Steele of La Roche-Posay, when it comes to skin care actives, formulations that target pollution and environmental assaults such as weather, pollution and free radicals are becoming a priority, particular in Asian markets. "The emergence of novel blends of antioxidants Billed as the first OTC redness-correcting CC cream, La-Roche Posay's Rosaliac CC Creme feature octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene and titanium dioxide offer potential for synergistic effects in both preventative and restorative aging," he explained. "Natural plant-derived extract innovations are still evolving in areas of anti-aging, pigmentation and hydration."

This article, originally published on December 5, 2014, has been edited for our Asian readers.

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