Beyond fragrance: How EMSA is redefining innovation and skin protection in the age of blue light

At in-cosmetics Asia 2025, held from November 4–6 in Bangkok, EMSA showcased HEVen Light Shield, an innovative technology designed to protect the skin from blue light emitted by digital screens. Demonstrated through a makeup fixing mist prototype, the version containing HEVen Light Shield effectively blocked over 99% of blue light in laser testing—clearly illustrating its protective efficacy and potential in future cosmetic formulations.

Ringier Trade Media Ltd spoke with Alex Moles Aguado, MD of Esencias Moles S.A. (EMSA), a company from Barcelona specializing in the creation of essences and fragrances for fine perfumery and personal care. With a background in chemical engineering, a PhD. in artificial intelligence to apply in chemical formulation design, and an Executive MBA from IESE, Moles combines scientific depth with strategic vision. Having led EMSA through a new era of global expansion and R&D excellence, he draws on his extensive experience to provide in-depth knowledge on innovation, consumer value, and emerging trends such as biotechnological actives and blue-light defense, as showcased in EMSA’s breakthrough technology, HEVen Light Shield, presented at the event. Below is the interview.

Which innovations does the cosmetics sector truly need today to remain relevant and sustainable in a rapidly evolving market?
In my view, true innovation in today’s cosmetics industry should focus on delivering real solutions of consumer challenges—such as pollution, excessive blue light exposure, and the demand for high-quality, effective ingredients. To stay relevant, brands must evolve alongside increasingly informed consumers by developing formulations that combine transparency, advanced technology, and scientifically proven novel active ingredients that deliver genuine value.

How can brands ensure that their products deliver real, measurable value to end consumers beyond marketing claims?
In my opinion, the real value stems from genuine investment in R&D. Brands must select effective ingredients, validate them through rigorous testing, and ensure that formulations perform as promised. When backed by science, measurable results, and sustainable practices, marketing becomes a reflection of proof rather than promotion.

From EMSA’s global experience, what are the key differences in consumer expectations and product preferences between Asia and Europe?
From our global experience, Asian consumers have long been aware of daily environmental aggressors—such as UV rays and blue light—while this awareness is only recently becoming more widespread in Europe. Consequently, Asian markets favor multi-step, specialized skincare routines, whereas European consumers prefer visible results while fitting naturally into everyday routines tend to perform well.

With biotechnological actives, well-aging, and microbiome protection emerging strongly, how is EMSA integrating these scientific advancements into its fragrance and essence development?
At EMSA, we bring scientific innovation directly into our products. One of our great examples is HEVen Light Shield, introduced at In-Cosmetics Asia 2025, which protects skin from blue light emitted by digital devices.

Our demonstrations showed its efficacy, we developed a makeup fixing mist prototype in which the formula containing HEVen Light Shield effectively blocked blue light in blue laser testing, while the untreated version allowed it to pass through. Our R&D studies confirm that this technology can absorb more than 99% of blue light and simultaneously protect Staphylococcus epidermidis, a beneficial bacterium that contributes to the skin’s natural defense.

What role will scent and texture play in shaping the next generation of personal care innovations?
It is important to ensure that the product truly works for the consumers. Consumers increasingly seek formulas that not only deliver visible, reliable results but also engage the senses through appealing textures and fragrances.

The next generation of personal care products will focus on blending performance with pleasure. The most successful innovations will be those that balance efficacy with an enjoyable, sensorial experience that reinforces trust in the product on its promise.

Finally, what is EMSA’s plans in 2026?
In 2026, we aim to continue introducing meaningful innovations—products that demonstrate real, perceivable benefits for consumers and contribute lasting value to the personal care industry.