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A promising ingredient may begin with an elegant mechanism or an encouraging set of laboratory data. Its journey into a commercial personal care product is much longer. The active must remain stable, reach the intended site of action, demonstrate repeatable efficacy, meet safety and regulatory requirements, and perform consistently across manufacturing batches. The finished formula still has to deliver a sensory experience that consumers accept.
That full development chain shaped the discussion at PCT 2026 Shanghai, held July 15–16 at the Kerry Hotel Pudong, Shanghai.
The event featured more than 10 thematic forums, over 100 technical presentations and more than 165 exhibitors. Participants came from international and Chinese beauty brands, ingredient suppliers, delivery and formulation specialists, OEM and ODM manufacturers, testing laboratories, regulatory consultancies, consumer research firms, universities and hospitals.
The breadth of participation allowed each technology to face several audiences at once. Brand R&D teams brought practical product-development questions. Clinical and academic researchers examined populations, pathways and experimental models. Suppliers had to explain how an active could be manufactured, delivered, tested and supplied at commercial scale.
Maggie Liu, CEO of Ringier Trade Media, opened the event by placing those questions within a changing global beauty market. McKinsey expects beauty’s core categories to grow by approximately 5% annually and reach $590 billion by 2030. The market is expanding as consumers become more selective about value, substantiation and performance.
Liu identified three forces reshaping product development: increasingly evidence-conscious consumers, deeper convergence among scientific disciplines, and tighter regulatory requirements across global markets. Durable competitiveness now depends on the ability to connect new-ingredient development, formulation, pilot production, batch control, efficacy testing and market-specific compliance.
Evidence becomes the common language of innovation
The July 15 plenary session was moderated by John Xie, Editor-in-Chief of happi China and Industrial Information Manager at Ringier Trade Media.
Dr. Daniel Ye, Director of Augmented Beauty North Asia at L’Oréal Research and Innovation, opened the technical program with a presentation on men’s skin health management in the AI era.
Male skin aging cannot be treated as a simple extension of female skin care. Gender, age, ethnicity, lifestyle and environmental exposure can produce different patterns of wrinkles, pores, redness and perceived age. AI gives researchers a way to evaluate those patterns with a repeatable grading system.
According to data presented by Ye, L’Oréal’s skin-aging atlas contains more than 300 reference scales covering multiple ethnicities, genders and skin types. It has supported clinical grading, efficacy evaluation and fundamental research involving more than 500,000 subjects worldwide. Automated grading tools trained on the associated data achieved more than 94% agreement with expert assessments.
Ye also discussed a study involving 201 Chinese men aged 20–59 in Baoding and Dalian. The research examined relationships among sun exposure, urban pollution, wrinkles, pores, facial redness and perceived age. It illustrated how AI-assisted measurement can support more granular population research and more individualized product design.
Delivery was the focus of Huiyu Wang, Director of Marketing at Spec-Chem Industry Inc. The company’s SpecPed NIP Liposome combines three neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides in a deformable liposomal system.
In vitro data presented at the meeting indicated that the system extended peptide release to 12 hours. A 24-person split-face study evaluated an emulsion serum containing 5% of the ingredient. After 28 days, the presentation reported reductions of 36.36% in wrinkle volume, 33.15% in wrinkle area and 30.49% in wrinkle area ratio. A separate immediate elasticity measure increased by 34.27%.
Wang also introduced skin-mimetic copper-peptide microcapsules, microalgae fermentation and sophorolipid technologies for skin, scalp and hair applications. The case captured a recurring message at PCT 2026: the identity of an active cannot explain finished-product performance on its own. Stability, availability, release and delivery determine how much of the ingredient can contribute to the intended effect.
Prof. Shouli Wang of Soochow University and Hongfei Zhu, founder of Suzhou Hengzhiqing Biotechnology Co., Ltd., extended the delivery discussion from ingredient performance to product industrialization.
Prof. Wang examined the regulatory boundaries between medical devices and cosmetics. He argued that efficacy-oriented skin care needs safety assessment, substantiation and a reliable quality system within the correct regulatory category.
Zhu introduced five generations of Hengzhiqing nanocrystal-array technology. The sequence moves from solid arrays that create microscopic surface channels to higher-density structures, liquid-dispensing substrates, scalp-specific arrays and systems capable of controlled delivery from the tip.
Company data showed a 12.6-fold increase in delivery efficiency compared with conventional topical application. Hengzhiqing also reported monthly manufacturing capacity of three million units, supported by microelectromechanical systems processes such as photolithography and etching.
The technology therefore had to answer two separate questions: does the system improve delivery, and can the same structure be produced consistently at commercial volume?
Clinical research supplied another layer of evidence. Prof. Leihong Xiang, Chief Physician of Dermatology at Huashan Hospital, reviewed a decade of work on photobiomodulation in aesthetic dermatology.
Photobiomodulation uses low-energy, non-thermal light to induce photochemical responses involving mitochondrial respiration, ion channels and cellular signaling. Xiang discussed studies of 585/590 nm yellow light and 830 nm near-infrared light in pigmentation, post-inflammatory changes and facial rejuvenation.
Her presentation linked yellow light to tyrosinase activity, melanosome maturation, autophagy and the H19/miR-675 pathway. Research involving 830 nm light suggested potential effects on post-inflammatory erythema, pigmentation and barrier damage, with the AKT/FoxO3a pathway among the mechanisms under investigation.
The clinical message was precise: a light-treatment claim is incomplete without wavelength, irradiance, fluence, pulse mode, frequency, target cell and tissue condition.
Preservation technology faced a similar demand for specificity. Dr. Haimei Wang, Scientific Communication Director at Guangdong NAGO Biotechnology Group, reviewed natural-origin definitions, antimicrobial systems and selective targeting mechanisms.
ISO 16128 provides technical definitions and methods for calculating natural and natural-origin indexes. It does not establish product safety, regulatory compliance, or rules for claims and labeling.
Wang discussed synergistic preservation systems involving caprylhydroxamic acid and examined the selective interaction between hinokitiol and bacterial membrane lipids. A natural origin cannot establish that a system is safe, broad-spectrum or effective in a finished formula. Challenge testing, toxicological assessment, compatibility studies and regulatory review remain essential.
The plenary concluded with a joint program on stress-related skin aging from Dr. Fan Hu, Head of R&D at Pechoin, and Prof. Jing Wang, Vice Dean of the School of Chemistry and Materials Engineering at Jiangnan University.
Hu described prolonged emotional stress as a potential disruptor of the neuroendocrine-immune balance. Sustained cortisol elevation may be associated with sebum production, acne, chronic inflammation and pigmentation. Cortisol signaling can also affect extracellular-matrix synthesis, oxidative stress and cellular energy metabolism.
The research team began with a Pechoin database of approximately 300 Chinese botanical candidates. Structural analysis, content measurement and literature review narrowed the field to more than 30 plants. Molecular docking and activity screening against 11β-HSD1 led to the selection of Schisandra and Campsis flower.
In a TNF-α-induced keratinocyte stress model, the resulting combination was reported to reduce cortisol and modulate indicators associated with the 11β-HSD1/NF-κB pathway. In cortisol-treated dermal fibroblasts, it countered declines in type I collagen, type III collagen and elastin expression.
“Emotional skin care” became a defined development problem: identify the stress signal, select a target, build an appropriate model and measure the downstream response.
Clinical collaboration clarifies the research problem
On July 16, John Xie moderated the Medical-Research Co-creation & Precision Repair Session.
Dr. Yu Song, Chief Physician at Longhua Hospital affiliated with Shanghai University of Traditional Chinese Medicine, and Dr. Kang Cheng, Director of the Chinese Herbal Medicine Research Center at Shanghai Inoherb Cosmetics Co., Ltd., opened with “From Prescription to Formula.”
Their presentations addressed redness, dryness, itching and barrier fragility from clinical and product-development perspectives. The objective was to turn clinical observations into research questions, efficacy endpoints and practical formulation goals.
The following speakers extended that path from materials to models and finished products. Dr. Weiyang Zhang, Product Director at Folight Biotechnology, introduced multidomain macromolecules designed to support moisturization, repair, lipid replenishment, powder dispersion and responsive film formation.
Dr. Yang Ouyang, Vice President of R&D at Hangzhou Regenovo Biotechnology and General Manager of Hangzhou Regetest Technology, presented 3D sebaceous-gland models, hair-follicle organoids and dynamic microscopic visualization. These tools can support more physiologically relevant in vitro evaluation of sebum control, acne, hair loss, hair pigmentation and scalp homeostasis.
Dr. Yunchen Le, Head of Medical Research at Yatsen Group and technical lead of the Ruijin-Yatsen Joint Laboratory of Medical Skincare, reviewed the theory and practice behind Dr. Wu’s triple-renewal approach. Dr. Ruilong Xia of Shanghai Chicmax used the KANS 377 program to examine how ingredient research, evaluation methods, medical collaboration and product studies can form a connected evidence chain.
Yujun Zhang, Deputy Director of Fundamental Research for Caizhiji at Yunnan Baiyao, and Prof. Jianye Wang of Inner Mongolia Medical University concluded with a medical-research co-creation model for precision skin care based on natural medicinal plants.
The session positioned clinical participation as a way to define the relevant population and problem, rather than a general endorsement added after product development.
Regulation, testing and AI move earlier in development
Regulation and quality were treated as part of R&D rather than a final approval exercise.
Yuxiang Gu, Deputy Manager at the Shanghai Institute of Quality Inspection and Technical Research, moderated the Regulatory and Testing Session. He also examined raw-material quality indicators, risk substances and quality-control challenges.
Dr. Chunlin Shen of Estée Lauder China introduced Next-Generation Risk Assessment and the role of new approach methodologies in cosmetic safety assessment. Xinyi Hu of REACH24H Consulting Group reviewed filing strategies for popular new cosmetic ingredients in China, covering safety, efficacy, quality specifications and technical documentation.
Hao Wu, CTO of YIBAN Technology, examined AI-driven product life-cycle management, while Eric Huang, Head of Regulatory Affairs and Quality Management for Chanel China, reviewed updates to EU fragrance-allergen requirements. Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 expanded individual labeling requirements for fragrance allergens above specified thresholds, affecting ingredient management, packaging and market planning.
The Frontier Technologies Session, moderated by Ringier Trade Media’s Weijie Chen, showed how new tools are entering defined research tasks.
Yajun Luo of the Estée Lauder Global R&D Center introduced Raman spectroscopy for human efficacy studies. Lynn Lin of Beijing Landivine presented a polymer-based non-transdermal coloring technology designed to deliver color while limiting skin penetration.
Dr. Xuedong Liu, founder of Chaogui Research Institute, introduced a generative AI model developed specifically for beauty research. Dr. Yao Chen of Cosmax examined efficient delivery and supramolecular modification of cosmetic actives. Dr. Yue Liu of Better Way presented an AI model for research on photodamage across multiple exposure scenarios.
Dr. Yexiang Zhang of Harbin Fuerjia discussed targeted PDRN delivery combined with nanosphere collagen for sensitive-skin anti-aging. Dr. Lei Li of the Ositree Brand Laboratory presented dark-tea leaf extract as a dual-pathway approach to melanin inhibition and the prevention of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
AI, Raman spectroscopy, supramolecular delivery and new efficacy models were useful because each addressed a defined development problem. Their value did not depend on the novelty of the tool alone.
Anti-aging divides into finer mechanisms and product tasks
The Bochi Biotechnology session traced a route from active discovery to finished-product application.
Dr. Na Feng of the Shanghai Academy of Agricultural Sciences addressed the fermentation enrichment and precise quantification of triterpenes from Ganoderma sinense mycelium. Jingjing Zhang of Bochi moved the discussion toward cutaneous mechanosensation, neural longevity and neurite-level regulation.
Delivery and formulation then came into focus. InvivoVention founder Linjing Li presented a light-responsive biofilm for sun care. Bochi’s Yaqiong Shu compared deformable niosomes with conventional liposomes, while Chen Chen examined microencapsulation as a response to retinol instability and irritation.
Alice Yeting Zhou concluded by applying the same development logic to lip care, linking barrier repair, endogenous renewal and sensorial plumping.
John Xie returned as moderator for the July 15 afternoon Anti-Aging & Skin Longevity Science Session.
Dr. Huanjun Zhou, Director of Estée Lauder R&D China and Clinique APAC Chief Scientist, presented a recombinant PDRN ingredient matrix intended to support extracellular-matrix renewal. Jinghua Qiao of Casynta introduced supramolecular teprenone for anti-aging products designed for sensitive skin.
Lynn Ning of Ashland presented the eternight biofunctional ingredient, while Zoey Chow of Youthretain used black ginger to discuss how skin-longevity science can be translated into consumer communication.
Plant resources and longevity pathways shaped the second half of the session. Jing Xie of Dr. Plant and Prof. Jing Wang of Jiangnan University presented industry-university research on Dendrobium officinale. Yi Huang of Zhejiang Peptides Biotech introduced Oligopeptide-6 in connection with longevity proteins and the AMPK-SIRT pathway.
Pechoin and Beijing Technology and Business University then released the 2026 White Paper on Holistic Anti-aging for Chinese Women. Dr. Fan Hu introduced Pechoin’s anti-aging philosophy and technology strategy. Prof. Yi Fan examined facial-contour aging and a more population-relevant framework for observing aging among Chinese women.
The July 16 continuation moved further into facial structure, delivery and commercial application.
Minjia Yuan, Chief R&D Officer at Shanghai Genca Technology, moderated the morning session. Junxi Kou of Shiseido China R&D Center examined the tissue-level and biological causes of facial sagging. Dr. Eric Zhang of Evonik discussed skin longevity as a move from correcting visible signs toward earlier intervention at cellular and molecular levels.
Chuntao Zhai of Shanghai Zhina Biotechnology introduced an Oriental flower-derived approach to immediate wrinkle smoothing and longer-term firming. Dr. Yutang Li of Shenzhen JYMed presented PLA/PCL liquid nanospheres for encapsulating anti-wrinkle peptides.
Patrick Sun of SILAB China placed the dermis and its supporting network at the center of anti-aging research. Yuan completed the morning with an olive-leaf polyphenol combination developed for protection against UVB-induced photoaging.
Candy Tang, editor of happi China and Industrial Information Manager at Ringier Trade Media, moderated the afternoon program.
Yanhong Yuan of Freda’s Key C introduced membrane-penetrating collagen 2.0 and its move from surface improvement toward cellular anti-aging. Julia Kang of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant presented blue-biotechnology ingredients for skin plumpness, radiance and translucency.
Benwen Cui of Baihong Huayi Group examined supramolecular nucleic-acid carriers for PDRN, while Carol Du of Kline & Company connected skin healthspan with consumer demand and commercial opportunity.
The final presentations focused on research infrastructure and value creation. Weiqiang Zheng of Centre Testing International discussed new efficacy targets and in vitro models. Borun Huang of Chongqing Ansaibo introduced a plant-cell-culture platform for developing multiple ingredient matrices. Kila Li of China Insights Consultancy examined the path from ingredient innovation to accumulated efficacy assets that can support future products.
Across these sessions, anti-aging was divided into increasingly specific tasks: facial sagging, dermal support, extracellular-matrix renewal, sensitive-skin aging, neural regulation, peptide delivery, photoaging and population-specific contour change.
Emotional skin care connects mechanism with experience
Prof. Huali Wu of Shanghai University of Traditional Chinese Medicine moderated the Emotional Skincare and Sensory Science Session.
Dr. Han Cao, Head of Emotional Skincare for EVE LOM at Yatsen Group, introduced the brand’s research in neurocosmetics. Wenqiang Lin of Shanghai Shengping Testing examined the use of AI, consumer insight and sensory science as inputs for product development.
Minli Gao of Zhejiang Silicon-Based Life presented an intelligent mesoporous-silica loading technology for emotional skin care actives. Coco Wu of Huxly by MMR discussed the design of personal care experiences during a period of economic and social uncertainty.
Dr. Xuelan Gu, Chief Scientist at the Unilever China R&D Center, presented the Chinese Female Stress Study, mapping relationships between stress and skin changes. Dr. Li Zhu of WIJ Healthcare introduced PureStar 1.0 as a platform connecting skin science with neuroscience.
Prof. Wu closed with a review of mechanisms through which emotional stress may damage the skin barrier.
The session gave emotional skin care three layers of evidence: a physiological mechanism, a consumer-perceived experience and a material system capable of supporting a formulated product.
Sensitive skin becomes a collection of distinct conditions
Yanan Li of PROYA moderated the July 15 Sensitive Skin and Barrier Science Session.
Dr. Yin Li of PROYA introduced the company’s Hyper3DS technology and differentiated care for sensitive-skin types. Die Zhang of Shanghai Coachchem examined basement-membrane repair as a point of connection between medical aesthetics and daily skin care.
Byron Xue of Plamed Green Science presented a repair ingredient designed to work synergistically with Centella asiatica. Benxia Zhao of DKSH Performance Materials introduced ViscoPure, a natural polysaccharide-based thickener, and examined its effects on rheology, formulation performance and sensory properties.
Dr. Ruilong Xia of Shanghai Chicmax presented vernix-inspired ceramides for restoring physiological homeostasis in damaged epidermis. Chellan Huang of Cargill Beauty introduced BotaniDesign, a highly occlusive natural-origin emollient for sensitive-skin formulations.
Dr. Xiang Li of PROYA addressed oily, sensitive and acne-prone skin as a distinct product-development problem. Yanan Li completed the session by releasing a group standard for the in vitro evaluation of precise acne control and barrier repair in lysozyme-containing cosmetics.
Tang moderated the July 16 continuation.
Nan Wu of Simcare Biotechnology presented research on Asian sensitive skin. Yingfeng Li of Zhihe Biotechnology introduced a DHA-rich functional oil supported by multi-omics efficacy research.
Xinyuan He of Hangzhou Viablife examined the roles that ceramides can play in barrier science. Songjie Zhang of the Kao China Research and Development Center presented a ceramide-based care technology evaluated in Chinese individuals with impaired barrier function and sebum-associated facial redness.
Yun Zhang of Kolmar Cosmetics Wuxi discussed D-phase microemulsions in emulsion formulations and barrier-repair products. Dr. Qian Zhong of Shanghai Chicmax introduced Artemisia annua oil AN+ within a “four-barrier” framework for sensitive-skin care.
The two sessions showed why “for sensitive skin” is too broad to function as a complete research brief. Sebum level, acne status, barrier damage, redness, age and population characteristics can require different models and endpoints.
Sun protection and pigmentation become more measurable
Shiyu Zhou of Hunter Biotechnology moderated the Sun Protection, Skin Brightening and Photobiology sessions.
Dr. Li Ma of Coty Asia R&D introduced a rapid method for quantifying blue-light protection based on immediate pigment darkening. Dr. Hao Wang of Shenzhen Shinehigh Innovation presented a supramolecular system designed to limit avobenzone penetration.
Ming Cao of SETHIC discussed co-culture fermentation for brightening and translucency. Claire Cai of AEGIS Technology examined the relationship among ingredient safety, scientific evidence and consumer trust.
Nick Li of Elementis presented an emulsifier-free oil-in-water sunscreen system, while Yiping Wu of Hautebio introduced a multidimensional co-assembly delivery platform for brightening products intended for sensitive skin.
Prof. Xia Li, Deputy Director of Dermatology at Ruijin Hospital, reviewed sunscreen and daily skin care efficacy and risk from a medical evaluation perspective.
The July 16 program extended the discussion to children, film structure and molecular targets.
Miya Zhu of Frog Prince examined the pathway for children’s sun protection, from scientific evidence to consumer communication. Xinchi Yin of MFCI Technology introduced nanostructured lipid carriers for sunscreen development.
Yiren Lu of Shanghai Oli Enterprises presented a cellular phospholipid biomimetic membrane designed to support film formation, texture and wear. Lydia Guo of BYK Additives reviewed new approaches to sunscreen formulation.
Lu Han of Shanghai AZ Science and Technology discussed botanical actives targeting multiple stages of pigmentation. Dr. Yueting Sun of the Integrative Science Center of Germplasm Creation presented a silk-peptide mesh designed to suppress TRPV4-mediated melanogenesis and PDGFRβ-associated cellular senescence.
The program linked target population, carrier technology, film structure, formulation stability and pigmentation biology within the same category.
Scalp and hair research adopts multi-omics and aging models
Prof. Jianxin Wu of China Pharmaceutical University moderated the July 15 Scalp and Hair Health Session.
Dr. Jiayin Gu of Unilever presented research on the anti-hair-loss efficacy of piroctone olamine. Dr. Wenlong Xie of Jingkun Chemistry introduced a highly transparent cationic-cellulose conditioner.
Baoping Zhou of Shanghai Coachchem presented EffeMIX-wukongCC as a multidimensional scalp-care system. Dr. Chaofei Yang of RNA Link introduced a recombinant small-RNA technology for hair-loss prevention and hair-density applications.
Dr. Su Liu of PROYA presented multi-omics research on oily scalp. Shu Ya of Provital introduced a 3D colloidal matrix designed to improve hair conditioning and create a glass-like shine. Prof. Wu concluded with the construction of a scalp-aging model and associated measurement indicators.
The July 16 session was moderated by Dr. Jianzhong Yang, Chairman of Beauty Innovation, Chief R&D Officer of Off&Relax and President of the Japan-China Cosmetic Exchange Association.
Yang compared technology-development strategies for mass-market and premium hair care, including their different approaches to sensory and emotional value. Sana Zi of Amway reviewed the path from hair-damage models to efficacy verification.
Peng Zhang of Guangdong Nutri-Woods Bio-Tech discussed molecular-level system design for cleansing and post-wash comfort. Dr. Biwei Wang of Ino Skin Family argued that long-term hair-retention strategies need to consider scalp-barrier health as well as the follicle.
Prof. Fengnian Zhao of Beijing Technology and Business University presented EHD’s typology-based approach to hair-loss prevention, linking different conditions with targeted research and product regimens.
Hair-care evaluation now extends across the fiber, follicle, scalp barrier, sebum status, microbiological environment and biological aging.
Innovation moves from materials to products and industrial delivery
The Innovation Forum brought consumer trends, formulation materials, delivery and commercialization into one program.
Tang moderated the July 15 morning session. KK Zhang of WGSN opened with consumer forecasts for 2028. Jianhua Yang of Shanghai Yusong Biotechnology presented a green delivery platform for precision penetration enhancement.
Shanshan Zhu of Guangzhou Reachin Chemical examined advanced crosslinked polymers for thickening, rheology and skin-feel design. David Zhou of Shanxi Jinbo Bio-Pharmaceutical introduced an oil-soluble collagen system for repair and anti-aging formulations. Dr. Jiahua Pu of Shenzhen PAM2L Biotechnologies discussed skin-repair mechanisms and innovative biomaterials.
Qu Zhan of Ringier Trade Media moderated the afternoon program.
Prof. Wei Liu of Huazhong University of Science and Technology examined skin-delivery technologies for products intended to delay visible aging. Changsong Shi of Berison International Trade reviewed selenium sulfide shampoo formulation.
Dr. Yu Liu of Shanghai Practical Enterprise Development introduced organoid cultures induced from plant pluripotent stem cells as a sustainable route to actives from rare or endangered plants.
Lingfeng Zhu of Synceres Biosciences discussed AI agents in synthetic biology. Fangqi Zhu of Zhejiang Huarui Biotechnology presented glycyrrhetinic glucuronide as a new soothing ingredient.
Dr. Suning Zhang of Shanghai Institute of Technology examined modified starch for active encapsulation and delivery. Chaoyi Qin of RNW concluded with cleansing-product development informed by skin science.
Zhan returned for the July 16 session.
Shuang Zang of UNNYCLUB examined foundation development for sensitive skin. Dr. Jionglin Chen of Guangzhou Yuandong Biotechnology introduced NexaCel TBC-01X, a cellulose self-assembly network designed to create new thickening and suspension behavior.
Qinghai Yang of Zhongshan Hiho Biotechnology presented active silicon for multidimensional repair. Dr. Xinjiong Ni of Jiangsu Rayting Biotechnology discussed probiotic technologies in plant fermentation.
Hui Ma, also known as Yuting Wang, of Xiaohongshu examined the platform’s transition from content community to commerce and the way product feedback, awareness and purchasing interact within its beauty ecosystem.
The sessions showed that product innovation now includes consumer insight, base formulation, rheology, delivery, biomanufacturing and market interaction.
Biotechnology creates new routes for plant resources
Prof. Cheng Yang, Director of the Cosmetic Innovation Center at Jiangnan University, moderated the Specialty Botanicals and Biotechnology Session.
Qinqian Tao of Kangaroo Mommy examined adolescent skin and plant-derived approaches to sebum control and acne care. Dr. Ye Tian, Chairman of RNA Link, discussed advances in small-nucleic-acid synthesis and their potential use in skin care.
Dr. Haishan Zhao of Guangzhou Dipu Biotechnology presented the anti-aging application of Acmella oleracea. Dr. Chao Feng of Zhejiang Peptides Biotech examined naturally derived cyclic peptides as potential new cosmetic ingredients.
Lei Li of Shanghai Jiao Tong University discussed sustainable development routes for plant resources. Qian Wang of AAK China presented liquid shea systems designed to overcome handling and formulation limitations associated with conventional shea butter.
Dr. Zhen Chen of Yunnan Xicao Resources Development introduced a low-molecular-weight coffee cherry husk cell fluid for scalp-care applications, linking agricultural byproduct utilization with personal care development.
Prof. Yang closed with advances in the preparation, engineering and translation of plant-derived extracellular vesicles.
The species itself is now only one part of a botanical ingredient’s value. Active identification, preparation, quality control, sustainable supply and formulation compatibility determine whether the resource can support a commercial product.
The exhibition floor asks a different set of questions
The exhibition area gave the technical sessions a practical counterpart.
More than 165 exhibitors presented ingredients, fragrances, formulation additives, production and testing equipment, packaging materials and third-party services.
Topics discussed in the conference rooms—synthetic biology, small nucleic acids, peptides, PDRN, plant biotechnology, delivery systems, sensitive-skin repair and scalp care—appeared at the booths as samples, prototype formulations, testing methods and finished applications.
Visitors asked about active content, recommended use levels, formulation compatibility, irritation potential, stability, regulatory status and production capacity. These questions moved the discussion from biological possibility to development feasibility.
The PCT Beauty New Product Showcase featured launches from Pechoin, KANS, Mistine, Dr. Plant, Dr. Wu, Fuerjia, Off&Relax, RNW, UNNYCLUB, EHD and other brands. Products addressed stress-related aging, sensitive-skin repair, sun protection, acid-based renewal, efficacy cleansing, skin-caring makeup and hair-loss prevention.
The 2026 Ringier Formulation Master Awards public sensory evaluation allowed professional visitors to assess entries in repair and soothing, anti-aging, and whitening and brightening categories. Application, absorption, skin feel and overall experience contributed to the evaluation.
The supply-chain matchmaking program paired each pre-submitted brand, OEM or ODM requirement with three to five ingredient, packaging, manufacturing or technical-service suppliers. Participants could move directly into discussions of dosage, formulation constraints, production requirements and project fit.
On July 16, the Ringier Technology Innovation Awards for the personal care industry recognized 132 technologies and products from 109 companies.
Innovation is being tested more precisely
A clear pattern emerged across the two days.
Industry professionals remain interested in new ingredients. Their questions now extend far beyond the ingredient name.
Can the active be quantified accurately? Is the proposed target biologically credible? Does the delivery system change distribution in a measurable way? Can the efficacy result be repeated? Will the formula remain stable? Can production maintain the same specifications from batch to batch? Do the safety and regulatory files support long-term use?
Much of the competitive difference is created after an ingredient has been discovered.
Population research has also moved beyond its former role as a marketing segmentation tool. Men’s skin, Asian sensitive skin, Chinese women, children, oily and acne-prone sensitive skin, stress-related aging and different scalp states appeared repeatedly in the program.
Population differences influence the research question, model, tolerability threshold and efficacy endpoint. Precision skin care requires corresponding population data if it is to mean more than a label claim.
Evaluation tools are gaining a larger role. Three-dimensional sebaceous-gland models, hair-follicle organoids, Raman spectroscopy, multi-omics, NGRA, dynamic microscopic visualization and AI models allow researchers to observe changes that were previously difficult to measure.
Medical collaboration, regulation and quality control are moving earlier in the process. Clinical questions help define the population. In vitro and human studies establish evidence. Regulatory requirements determine which claims can be made and which markets can be entered. Raw-material quality affects stable production and repeatable performance.
PCT 2026 Shanghai ultimately pointed to a straightforward standard for personal care R&D: innovation must address a real problem with a solution that can be validated, manufactured, supplied, regulated and experienced in a finished product.
A good technology must be explainable. A market-ready technology must also withstand testing.