As the personal care market races to achieve efficacy and quick results, a trend is taking shape in the pursuit of "slow enjoyment" and deep sensory experience. In this tug-of-war between speed and experience, formulator innovation is becoming a key force for industry change.
These trends are at the heart of the Ringier Master Formulator Award - Personal Care Industry 2025" launched by Ringier Trade Media Ltd and "happi China" magazine on March 6.
The competition invites formulators across China to redefine the sense of skincare ritual through innovative formulas. Carrying the theme, "Future Sensory Experience, Slow Life Skincare", it highlights the core concepts: sensory innovation, creating an unprecedented user experience through multi-dimensional texture, touch and fragrance design; and the philosophy of slow beauty or slow skincare, which emphasizes long-lasting efficacy and emotional connection, and builds a long-term dialogue with the skin.
The focus is on repair, soothing, anti-aging and whitening and brightening. Participants can choose one or more tracks to participate in (1-3 works can be submitted). Each track will use designated functional ingredients provided by high-quality companies in the industry to help participants create innovative formulas.
As the most challenging core product in the skincare system, the dosage form category of the competition is cream, which can embody the dual requirements of "texture sensory experience" and "slow and long-lasting effect". From a technical point of view, the formulation design of the cream should tackle factors such as the selection of emulsion system, the balance of oil and water phase components, the regulation of texture, and the stability of active ingredients, which provides a stage for formulators to show their technical strength.
Innovative raw materials empower formulation development
The competition invites industry-leading companies to provide cutting-edge functional raw materials. Keqin Laboratory, Angel AHH, Shanhai Innovation, and others cover three major tracks: whitening and brightening, anti-aging, repair and soothing ingredients.
For example, Anallerg-Mulan, a highly effective whitening ingredient derived from the plant Magnolia, effectively down-regulates melanin synthesis by hindering the maturation of tyrosinase, promoting tyrosinase degradation, and inhibiting the transfer of tyrosinase to melanoids.
Anallerg-Retinal, as an anti-wrinkle and anti-aging skin care active ingredient, is less irritating to the skin than retinoic acid; Kava Leaf/Root/Stem Extract (Anallerg-Kavain) contains the calming, soothing, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, pain-relieving capsaicin active ingredient; As a new generation of biological acid, maltolic acid (Anallerg-NFA) has multiple effects such as keratin exfoliation, anti-sugar, anti-oxidation, yellowing and brightening.
Angel AHH's Fermthink yeast blue core Cu25 is obtained by screening yeast strains with high tolerance and enrichment ability to copper, and the bio-organic copper is obtained by fermentation process, showing excellent anti-aging effect.
The supramolecular structure of Xuan Huiyan SHINE+ Hwhite M-TM provided by Shanhai Innovation is made of tranexamic acid and mandelic acid through supramolecular eutectic strengthening technology, which has the effect of reducing post-inflammatory pigmentation, efficient whitening and redness, and the water and oil parental characteristics increase its permeability by 200% and the whitening efficiency by more than 5 times.
A look back at the inaugural competition
The first Ringier Master Formulator Awards in 2024 saw a total of 62 entries, of which 10 winners were selected, for Excellence Award, First Prize, Second Prize, Third Prize, and Potential Award.
In terms of efficacy distribution, moisturizing, repairing and soothing products accounted for 70%, anti-aging products accounted for 24%, and whitening and brightening products accounted for 6%.
Wang Gang, the head of R&D of Sichuan ISA Yueli Health Management Co., Ltd., bagged the Excellence Award, the highest honor for the whitening formula Birun Complexion Whitening Cream. The formulation focused on the stability of traditional whitening products through the innovative application of D-phase emulsified hydrogel system, and integrates efficacy, texture and emotional value.
The judges
The judging panel of the competition is composed of well-known experts, scholars and senior cosmetics R&D professionals in the industry.
The members of the expert group include Wang Ying, Senior Director of Shiseido China R&D Center, Helga ZHU, Head of Product Innovation and Development of LVMH Asia Pacific Beauty R&D Center; Chen Liang, Director of Front-end and Open Innovation and Clinical Science of Beiersdorf Shanghai Innovation Center; Han Zhengyu, Commercial Director of Beauty & Personal Care Industry of Minstar Greater China; Tan Yimei, Director of Cosmetics Research Office of Shanghai Dermatology Hospital; Li Qiong, Vice President of Shanghai Daily Chemicals Industry Association; Xu Bai, Instructor of Industry-Education Integration of School of Biomedical Engineering, Chinese Academy of Sciences, and other industry authorities.
Industry KOL judges include Junping Demon King, a national first-class cosmetics formulator, Rex, a senior formulator; Kenjijoel, a doctor and beauty industry consultant; Sakae Tanaka, who has 26 years of experience in skin care research and development; Bao Fang, a cosmetics formulator and R&D director, and Liu Xing, a senior formulator with 16 years of experience in the industry.
International market research firm Mintel will ensure that the judging process is professional and authoritative. The evaluation covers four aspects: formulation design concept, commercial feasibility, safety and compliance, and sensory evaluation.
Entry process and future timeline
Qualified in-service cosmetics R&D engineers and formulators are welcome to sign up for the competition at https://saas.industrysourcing.cn/2GaSzH
The preliminary stage is from April 7 to May 30. The participants will start formula development after they receive the raw materials, during the "Formula Cloud Course" webinar, and experts will explain the application of ingredients and the key points of formulation. Participants are required to submit formula design plans and samples before May 30.
The on-site public skin feeling evaluation will be held on July 2-3 at the PCT Personal Care Technology Summit Forum & Exhibition in Shanghai. The final award ceremony will be held in November 2025 at the PCT Personal Care Technology Summit & Exhibition in Guangzhou, where the winners of the Excellence Award, First Prize, Second Prize, Third Prize and Honorable Mention will be announced. Winners will receive honorary certificates and trophies, as well as exclusive interviews with happi China magazine and multi-channel promotion exposure.
This year's competition has a number of open activities, and industry professionals are welcome to participate. Some of the formula cloud courses will be open to the whole industry, and interested parties can follow the "Ringier Personal Care" WeChat official account.
All participants are welcome to participate in the on-site public skin perception evaluation session of PCT Shanghai Station on July 2-3, experience the entries first-hand and contribute their professional opinions.
The award ceremony and technical exchange meeting in November will be held at the PCT Guangzhou Station, providing an opportunity to communicate face-to-face with the award-winning formulators. Formulators who are interested in the event should follow the official account and prepare in advance to lock in next year's "Ringier Master Formulator Award"
Author: Organizing Committee of the Ringier Master Formulator Award
Source: Jung – International Personal Care Manufacturers