Ancient Egyptian Cosmetics 'Magical' eyeliner may have been medicinal

THERE'S more to the eye makeup that gave Queen Nefertiti and other ancient Egyptian royals those stupendous gazes. Scientists in France are reporting in a recent issue of Analytical Chemistry1 that the alluring eye makeup also may have been used to help prevent or treat eye disease by doubling as an infection-fighter. Christian Amatore, Philippe Walter, and colleagues note that thousands of years ago the ancient Egyptians used lead-based substances as cosmetics, including an ingredient in black eye makeup. Some Egyptians believed that this makeup also had a "magical" role in which the ancient gods Horus and Ra would protect wearers against several illnesses. Until now, however, modern scientists largely dismissed that possibility, knowing that lead-based substances can be quite toxic. "According to ancient Egyptian manuscripts, these were essential remedies for treating eye illness and skin ailments. This conclusion seems amazing because today we focus only on the well-recognized toxicity of lead salts," according to the researchers. In earlier research, the scientists analysed 52 samples from ancient Egyptian makeup containers preserved in the Louvre museum in Paris. They identified four different lead-based substances in the makeup. Using ultra microelectrodes, they have obtained new insights into the biochemical interactions between lead ions and cells, which support the ancient medical use of sparingly soluble lead compounds. They found that the substances boosted production of nitric oxide by up to 240 per cent in cultured human skin cells. Modern scientists recognise nitric oxide as a key signalling agent in the body. Its roles include revving-up the immune system to help fight disease. Eye infections caused by bacteria can be a serious problem in tropical marshy areas such as the Nile area during floods, the scientists note. Therefore, the ancient Egyptians may have deliberately used these lead-based cosmetics to help prevent or treat eye disease, the researchers suggest, noting that two of compounds do not occur naturally and must have been synthesized by ancient Egyptian "chemists." "The present data thus establish that the eyes of Egyptians bearing the black makeup were presumably prone to immediately resist a sudden bacterial contamination with extreme efficiency through the spontaneous action of their own immune cells. Indeed, it is well recognised today that in most tropical marshy areas, such as was the Nile area during floods, several bacterial infections are transmitted to humans following any accidental projection of contaminated water drops into one's eye," the researchers note. Among the substances synthesised was laurionite2, a crystalline lead chloride that according to ancient Egyptian manuscripts cited by the authors were essential remedies for treating eye illness and skin ailments. "These data fully support that Horus' and Ra's protection that ancient Egyptians associated with this makeup and particularly with its laurionite component was real and effective, despite the fact that its "magic" implications seemed a priori totally irreconcilable with our modern scientific views and contrast with our present understanding of the toxicity of lead ions. "One cannot evidently go as far as to propose that laurionite was purposely introduced into the composition of the makeup because of any recognised antibacterial properties. Yet, one can presume that ancient Egyptian 'chemists' recognized empirically that whenever this 'white precipitate' was present in the makeup paste, their bearers were enjoying better health and thus decided to amplify this empirical protective function by specifically manufacturing laurionite," the scientists note. The scientists point out that many common cures and modern drugs find their basis in traditional medicinal practice. Whether or not Egyptians deliberately connected the manufacture of these leNike Roshe