in-cosmetics Asia 2014:top 10 Emulsifiers

Andrew McDougall and Michelle Yeomans, Deputy Editor and Assistant Editor at Cosmetics Design now reveal their favourite, “10 best of” emulsifiers at the show.

1) NIKKOL Nikkolipid 81S from NIKKO CHEMICALS (Stand E10)     
Working in the field of fine chemicals, Nikko incorporates the latest technology with a history in Colloid Chemistry for the dermatology and molecular biology fields. The company’s latest emulsifier ‘NIKKOL Nikkolipid 81S’ has been developed to cater to skin recovery and claims to promote a calming effect with anti-inflammatory efficacy & long-lasting hydration.

2) Emulsense from Inolex (Stand G18)        
Cationic emulsifiers are trending in the industry right now. Not only does this cationic conditioning agent fill the natural requirement too, it also has non-GMO, palm free and biodegradable properties. It is derived only from the alcohol in the Brassica plant and fermentation of an amino acid.

3) Alpha Arbutin from Fenchem Biotek (Stand E28)        
FM-α-Arbutin is a new type of active compound for beautifying and whitening the skin. It can be rapidly absorbed into the skin and selectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase. It is a pure, water soluble, biosynthetic active ingredient used in most advanced whitening skincare products.

4) Liquid Crystal from id CHEM (Stand H40)        
This Korea based supplier of natural emulsifiers, biocides and moisturizing agents has created a phospholipid based lamellar liquid crystal emulsifier for O/W skin care products. The substance consists of lecithin and several vegetable originated raw materials that promote good solubility in water as well as bringing the benefits of lecithin, a well-known natural emulsifier.

5) Emulsifying Wax from Unicorn Petroleum Industries (Stand D63)     
Emulsifying wax is widely used in the industry in creams and lotion formulations and Unicorn reckons this type is beneficial in mixing or emulsifying the water and oil phase. The emulsification occurs when two substances in this case, oil and water are successfully bound together, creating a sort of glue that combines the ingredients of a product.

6) Olifeel XYZ from Brasca (Stand E70)      
Another product made with natural raw materials, this new vegetable PEG-FREE W/O functional self-emulsifier system combines all the precious characteristics of olive oil with exceptional cosmetic functions. It creates a stable link between the oil and water phases network inside the emulsion (W/O) allowing the easy formulation of stable emulsions.

7) Acrysol from Corel Pharma Chem (Stand F62)     
Acrysol grades are chemically castor oil derivatives. They have the ability to solubilize or emulsify oil soluble ingredients, perfumes, essential oils and convert them in to clear transparent solution or a stable emulsion respectively.

8) SLM (Skin Lipid Matrix) from Lipoid Kosmetik (Stand G67)     
This new kind of base formulations is based on lamellar structure forming ingredients and does not contain any classic emulsifier. The SLM is composed of skin identical lipids that can regenerate and reconstruct the skin barrier.

9) Emulium Mellifera from Gattefossé (Stand J58)      
The company has created a new PEG-free emulsifier that has been developed to adapt to the needs of skincare and suncare consumers across the world.   With flexibility to formulate from sprays to butters, this new ingredient also won the gold award at the “Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards” during in-cosmetics in Hamburg (Ingredient also on the Innovation Zone)

10) Protesil WO from Seiwa Kasei (Stand N30)      
This Japanese time-tested manufacturer of raw materials has developed a series of hybrid polymers that feature peptides, an alkyl group and silicone. With Protesil WO, the company aims to apply it to several cosmetic formulations, liquid-foundation, sunscreen and high-moisturizing serum.
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