CPCIA 2015: Seeing the power in innovation

WIDELY heralded as key to success, innovation has become a  core value for today’s businesses, a major power driving people, companies and economy forward. This is the rationale for the China Personal Care & Cosmetics Innovations Awards (CPCIA), which aims to drive  industry growth by highlighting key industry influencers.

 

Held annually since 2006, CPCIA is committed to recognizing exceptionally innovative products and technologies with greatest potential to produce breakthroughs in today’s personal care and cosmetic industry. Innovation, by our definition, may include, but are not limited to solutions that utilize novel theoretical concepts, R&D approaches and manufacturing processes, or can be applied in an unconventional way.

 

 

Keeping pace with today’s ever-evolving market, our innovation award has never stopped elevating and renewing itself. So what’s new for this year’s awards? First, the definition of “innovation” has been refined and safety/efficacy evaluation become an integral part for this year's criteria. Secondly, a judge with exceptional background in Packaging has joined our panel to add higher authority to the CPCIA award in this category. 

 

As before, based on a rigorous vetting process that involved weeks of voting and due diligence by our independent panel of judges made this year’s selection from a total of 85 qualified entries. The final winners –  26 products from 25 companies –  were headed up by SymRepair®100 from Symrise and GabacareTMBL98T (aminobutyric acid) from Bloomage Freda Biopharm, which were recognized with the “Breakthrough Innovation Award”. 

 

As reflected by this year’s award, anti-aging and whitening/brightening, as well as sensory enhancing are still major trends in personal care and cosmetics market, while anti-pollution/environmental protection is increasingly a priority. When it comes to product R&D, a bigger picture approach is increasingly being taken, and demands are now for a more biological, multi-pathway mechanism behind products which can signal various parts of the body, both inside and out, to perform best results.

 

The winning edge

 

Awarding was at a ceremony on March 13th  held  alongside  the  Personal  and Homecare Care ingredients (PCHi) 2015 event. Here are details of select products that should provide an idea of why these innovations made it to the winners circle.

 

 

SymRepair®100 is highly effective, patented skin barrier repair complex, including CeramideBIO (Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide), fatty acids and phytosterols, which are based on the three key components of the lamellar bi-layers of the stratum corneum, and combined with Bisabolol, which has synergistic effect for skin barrier repair and anti-irritant effect. In addition, it is a liquid for easy formulation and provides good skin feeling. 

 

Gabacare BL98T, known as gamma-Aminobutyric acid (GABA) that is naturally present in human body, is an ideal ingredient for anti-ageing cosmetics. It is produced by Lactobacillus fermentation and offers the following benefits:

Tests carried out using 0.5% Gabacare BL98T cream for 4 weeks showed that the average depth of wrinkles are reduced, skin elasticity and skin tone are increased to reveal younger, fresher looking skin.

 

As a viscous amino acid polymer, gamma polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a type of natural whitener and moisturizer. It can form film on the skin surface to prevent evaporation of water and promote skin to produce natural moisturizing factor like HA. In the meantime, it also can promote skin absorption of nutrients to achieve a comprehensive moisturizing effect.

 

Cell Young Hair Care is specially formulated plant cell complex, which is made by plant tissue culture technology.  The plant complex includes camellias, lavender, rosemary, and Polygonum (knotweed) cell products extracted by ultrasonic low temperature extraction process to ensure the highest bioactivity.  This plant cell extract is experimentally proven to effectively promote hair follicle cell proliferation, relieve inflammation, and protect cells from UV damage and increased melanin production in hair follicle.  It has been clinically observed that after 28 days of Cell Young  Hair treatment, hair loss is reduced by 35% and hair volume is significantly increased.

 

Ronacare Hydroxysomes Calcium is a unique and targeted transport system for calcium to reach into deeper stratum corneum in order to revitalize the skin. The mode of action of is in harmony with nature: It consists of body’s own material – hydroxylapatite – and designed to support the natural calcium gradient of epidermis.

 

A silanol based on rhamnose, a natural sugar endowed with anti-inflammatory and cytostimulating properties, Sirhamnose prevents aging physiological alterations on the papillary dermis and dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). Through Silanol technology, Sirhamnose offers a better bioavailability to rhamnose for a higher penetration towards its objective: the DEJ. It reloads the connective tissue with organic silicium. The skin is better organized, structured, and visibly younger. It stimulates the synthesis of collagen IV and VII, but also other key proteins, involved in dermal-epidermis junction. 

 

ReGeniStem Brightening CR is derived from the meristematic cells of licorice root that has been assayed for both glabridin and flavone content. It is a safe, efficacious skin brightening ingredient that has been shown in clinical studies to enhance skin tone balance and target skin imperfections while visibly brightening skin. It is a stable, convenient-to-use, oil-based active with a 2-year shelf life. ReGeniStem Brightening CR has a full toxicological profile, including EpiDerm, EpiOcular and HRIPT testing that show it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. It is globally acceptable for use in cosmetic products.

 

SpecWhite Plus is a green, natural and safe whitening essence which is prepared from the extracts of 10 Chinese traditional medicine herbs: Panax notoginseng, Gastrodia elata, Glycyrrhiza uralensis, Panax ginseng, Poria, Carthamus tinctorius, Salvia miltiorrhiza, Cortex moutan, Scutellaria baicalensis, and Lycium chinense, using QSAR Bio chromatography extraction technology. It is rich in whitening active ingredients, including flavonoids and other plant active ingredients.

 

Phenylethyl Resorcinol lipid particles have the following advantages by the encapsulation of nanostructure lipid carriers (NLC):

 

With its groundbreaking dual coating, Merck’s titanium dioxide product Eusolex T-EASY helps to “crack the code” in balancing formulation -- particularly with those containing cosmetic ingredients which are problematic when combined with conventional microfine titanium dioxide. Moreover, its outstanding properties open up opportunities to create a wide variety of multifunctional skin care and sun protection products.

 

Slim-Excess is the innovative creation of BASF grounded in cooperation with molecular modelling experts. In fat cells, this red algae hyrdosylate can dose-dependently trap spermine and spermidine, which are the two key polyamines for fat storage, and inhibit excess fat formation in three different pathways. Slim-Excess is clinically proven to improve facial contour for a perfect V-shaping effect, meeting the consumer demand for slimming face and body.

 

MagnoPro Magnolia Bark Extract-WS is water-soluble powder obtained from the bark of Magnolia officinalis by CO2 extraction and then micro-encapsulated. This not only maintains the efficient antimicrobial characteristics, but also significantly improves the stability and water solubility of the magnolia bark extract. As a preservative suitable for personal care products, it is a hydrosoluble emulsion system.

 

Bicelles systems are lipid nanostructures formed by long-chained and short-chained phospholipids. The BIOXELL technology consists of bicelles encapsulated in liposomes using a patented technology. It is made up of internal smart bicelle structures, which are a discoid shaped enclosed in a liposome, with innovative 2-in-1intelligent function. Once in the skin, the encapsulated bicelles can respond to the skin layer environment and repair the skin barrier without destroying skin by penetrating in the desired layer, where the active ingredient needs to be delivered.

 

BELSIL® WO 5000 was developed for water-in-oil and water-in-silicone formulations. It is offered as a solution in a low viscose, linear dimethicone fluid, and the silicone polyglucoside contained in the solution is a renewable, natural, sugar-based component and is therefore in part rapidly biodegradable. It is a mild and gentle emulsifier, improving the storage and temperature stability, and providing a soft and velvety feel to skin.

 

A high performance butter for luxurious feel, Lipex IllipeSoft is designed to bring the appreciated moisturizing properties of cocoa butter and illipe butter to personal care formulations, without the difficulties often observed when formulating with traditional forms of the butters. They are also more compatible with other commonly used emollients and waxes, compared to the traditional butters. Lipex IllipeSoft is characterised by being rather soft at 20°C, with a flat melting profile leaving some solids also at skin temperature, i.e. 35°–40 °C. The use of this improved butters results in elegant cosmetic formulations that deliver highly desired sensory attributes.

 

N-DurHance A-1000 conditioning polymer, a new acrylate based homopolymer, brings an enduring dimension to hair repair and conditioning. It repairs damaged hair for extended periods, resulting in physiochemical properties normally found in virgin hair. Conditioning efficacy is maintained even after five wash cycles, whereas commercial conditioners lose their efficacy after one wash. The polymer is highly substantive to hair, with no measurable build-up or consumer perceivable negative attributes. Adding N-DurHance A-1000 conditioning polymer to rinse-off and leave-on formulations at low use levels provides a more permanent, enduring repair and conditioning effect.

 

TEGO® Solve 61 has been developed to incorporate lipophilic ingredients like emollients and natural fatty oils into clear cosmetic formulations. As aPEG-free solubilizer for natural oils, it provides superior skin feel as well as proven mitigating and moisturizing benefits. Easy to handle, cold processable, it is 100% naturally derived and certified for natural cosmetics.