Nature-identical silicone elastomer gels for anti-ageing applications

SEVERAL novel silicone elastomers for the cosmetic industry are being presented by WACKER at in-cosmetics Asia 2014. Among them is nature-identical hydroxytyrosol, HTEssence?, a new silicone elastomer gel for skin care and decorative cosmetics. Another new silicone elastomer ge being showcased is BELSIL? EG 2, which was developed to improve spreadability and skin feel of makeup and makeup.  

Highly effective antioxidant Hydroxytyrosol acts as a free-radical scavenger and can reduce skin aging and dark pigmentation. This secondary plant metabolite is considered a highly effective antioxidant and free radical scavenger with an ORAC value (oxygen radical absorbance capacity) of 4,500,000 μmolTE¹ – ten times higher than green tea and over twice as high as coenzyme Q10. In human cells, hydroxytyrosol influences the melanin pigments, so that the skin becomes lighter and dark patches disappear. It can also prevent wrinkle formation and skin aging.

Hydroxytyrosol is able to influence the melanin pigments in human cells, so that the skin becomes lighter and dark patches disappear, as well as act as a free radical scavenger that can further prevent wrinkle formation and skin aging

Due to these modes of action, hydroxytyrosol is a popular ingredient in cosmetics. One drawback, until recently, was the way it was produced. In nature, hydroxytyrosol is found in olives and olive leaves and its extraction is complex and cost-intensive. Thanks to Wacker’s new patented process, however, the ingredient is now available as a nature-identical substance of much greater purity, free of unwanted byproducts, and with a defined amount of active ingredient. 

The controlled production process not only offers supply security, but also ensures that HTEssence does not contain byproducts or contaminants. As a result, HTEssence is free of allergens and pesticides. Available as an odorless, water-soluble powder and liquid, the product is suitable for use not only in skin 

lightening cosmetics and anti-aging products, but also in functional dietary supplements. 

Improved skin feel Another highlight during the show, BELSIL EG 2, significantly improves the sensoric properties of skincare and makeup formulations. In addition to imparting a smoother and more supple feeling to the skin, this new silicone elastomer gel also has a thixotropic effect. When applied to the skin, its viscosity drops which makes the distribution of skin care products and decorative cosmetics much easier. The gel also improves the water resistance of cosmetic products. It is compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients and therefore offers maximum formulation flexibility.

Two other products will play center stage at the Wacker showcase at booth F50 at in-cosmetics Asia: the aminofunctional silicone emulsion BELSIL? ADM 9000 E and the caprylyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside BELSIL? WO 5000. 

ADM 9000 E, a macroemulsion for hair care products targeting medium to strongly damaged hair, shows an effective reduction of dry and wet combing forces thus avoiding mechanical damage. The silicone emulsion provides a soft and silky hair feel. The product especially caters to hair care products such as shampoos, rinse-off conditioners, hair masks, and serums as well as mousse formulations.

WO 5000, specially developed for water-in-oil and water-in-silicone formulations, uses a natural sugar-based component, which produces a mild water-in-oil emulsifier. It is deal for formulating skincare and suncare products as well as decorative cosmetics.

¹ micro mol trolox equivalent (vitamin E standard)