Pretty or just pretty useless?

EVEN though it may not always be the number one priority, at some level every woman desires to be beautiful, especially in this age of globalisation and engaging new media where the publicly-acknowledged impression of beauty is consistently bombarding one at every turn. From ‘long, luscious, flowing locks of hair’ to ‘silky, baby-smooth skin’, to having to be a certain size and shape, the so-called ‘requirements’ for beauty today have been said time and again to be basically impossible to attain without constant and professional attention, yet it does not stop millions, if not billions, of women around the world from trying to reach those standards.

One of the many new methods that have come along in the more recent past is that of consuming supplements. The jury is still out on whether these supplements do perform the miracles for beauty that retailers claim, but on the other hand there are many consumers who swear by their effectiveness – and sometimes, the effects can be astonishing, if not always replicable. Claims aside, the global market for beauty supplements is something of a miracle, considering it does not surround items that can be deemed ‘necessities’. In 2016 the total value of the global beauty supplements market reached USD3.5 billion, a number that is expected to reach USD 6.8 billion by 2024[i]. The Asia-Pacific region takes the biggest slice of the pie globally in this area, with Japan being the largest market but China and Korea also taking large shares, most likely due to an increase in beauty supplements by the male population.

Beauty supplements come in many forms, such as drinks, powders, pills, cereal bars, and jellies, and a new type is invented just about every other day. Consumers in some regions of Asia Pacific will also have seen supplement-infused Nescafé and beers in supermarkets.  At their core though, are several components and/or ingredients that tend to make their appearance in most of these supplements, depending on target and functionality.

From powders to pills to jellies, beauty supplements come in many forms. They can even be in drinks like coffee and beer

Fair and smooth skin

The skin is the largest organ of the body and making it smooth and/or fair is a task that requires a great deal more effort than one may expect. There’s even a specific name for the beauty supplements market that targets skin: nutricosmetics. There are several layers to our skin, and major components to take note of here are the outer epidermal layer (epidermis), and the layer below, the dermis, which contains the collagen and elastin components that determine whether skin is firm and supple. Creams and moisturisers target the epidermis as these are applied from the outside, but targeting the dermis is a whole other story, and is where beauty supplements come into the picture.

In theory, the mechanism behind beauty supplements lies in that nourishment from the nutrients contained in these supplements can be supplied directly to the skin from the inside after they are consumed and, should thus have a more obvious and longer-lasting effect on skin elasticity, firmness, or whatever characteristic is being targeted. Two of the main ingredients that skin supplements tend to focus on are collagen, a protein that is naturally found in skin and responsible for elasticity but is less and less effectively generated naturally as we age; and hyaluronic acid, which plays a major role in skin plumpness, but also decreases along with age.

The literature behind the effectiveness of collagen as a supplement is plentiful– but inconclusive. Several studies claim that collagen consumption improves the collagen network and synthesis in the dermis, thus improving skin suppleness[ii]^,[iii], though more often than not, the collagen tested in these experiments tend to be limited to those that used in specific brands of supplements. Many studies claim positive results, but seldom statistical significance[iv], and another common, careful conclusion is that of ‘further study is required’[v].

The first ever nutricosmetic produced was Imedeen, a Swedish product developed in the 1980s, containing a blend of marine-based amino acids, proteins and polysaccharides. That said, even for this pioneering product, it is not yet possible to conclusively say that the supplement is responsible for skin improvement in its users, although most studies conducted to investigate its effectiveness have reported somewhat positive results with usage[vi]^,[vii].

A lot of the worry behind collagen supplement effectiveness is that no matter what form of manner the collagen is ingested in, it will eventually be digested into its relevant subunits, and the debate is on-going as to whether or not these subunits actually serve to regenerate collagen fibres in the skin or are just digested as per normal protein. That said, so far collagen ingestion has not yielded any significant negative side effects, and there is abundant anecdotal evidence as to its effectiveness, so hopping on to this bandwagon is still common enough for consumers who prefer to be safe than sorry while waiting for researchers to find further conclusive evidence. Nutricosmetics brands in the market are near-innumerable, from specialists like Imedeen and Laneige, to traditionally food-based brands like Brands and Nescafé, and as such market players looking to penetrate this market and stand out from the crowd will need to find a way to ensure that their products can either show incredible efficacy, or have some sort of additional, more eye-catching benefit that will attract consumers who have so far been spoilt for choice.

While beauty is subjective, healthy skin and a youthful glow are generally appealing, hence supplements containing collagen remain popular even as their claims are inconclusive

Lustrous, silky-smooth, mermaid-like hair

When it comes to hair, collagen also plays a role, particularly as an essential building block, but the science on whether or not ingested collagen helps to make hair thick and lustrous is just as, if not more, inconclusive as that with skin. There are even more supplements and ingredients that are said to aid the quest for beautiful hair, including zinc for hair growth, vitamin E for hair to ‘shine’, copper to produce hair pigmentation, and even selenium for supposed hair elasticity. Some say a good vitamin B-complex will solve any possible hair woes, and the ultimate candidate thus far, especially if it concerns hair growth, is good old’ vitamin B_7­, also called biotin or vitamin H.

Biotin has also undergone myriad scientific research to prove its effectiveness for hair health, yet although a lack of biotin does indeed lead to hair loss issues, a 2017 review on scientific literature regarding biotin revealed that there is no conclusive evidence that supplemental consumption in healthy individuals provides additional health benefits for hair[viii], though it may be helpful for those with related disorders. Perhaps more disturbingly though, is the fact that some consumers have also previously alleged that taking supplemental biotin may cause weight gain[ix]^,[x]. There is no concrete evidence to conclude this as a side effect either, and vitamins are not generally known to affect weight gain, which makes this a potential risk that many female consumers would be unwilling to take. But when it comes down to it, there is no guarantee for either argument, and marketability will depend on whether or not the consumer is willing to take the risk.

Weight loss supplements from Garcinia cambogia are said to burn fat, but they have been linked to diarrhoea and liver damage 

Weight loss and fat-burning

Perhaps the number one concern of numerous women worldwide, the weight loss supplement industry is yet another area with an extremely wide array of options for consumers to choose from. Much result has been conducted in this area, and though thus far no real miracle solution has been discovered, there are many supplemental ingredients that are believed to provide weight loss assistance in a myriad of ways.

One of the most well-known supplements is derived from garcinia cambogia, arguably the most popular weight loss aid in the world and basically exploding in fame after being featured on American television programme The Dr. Oz Show back in 2012. Garcinia is a small green fruit, and the active ingredient it contains said to target weight loss is hydroxycitric acid, found in the rind. Research with animals has shown that garcinia inhibits fat production and potentially reduces food cravings[xi]^{,[xii],[xiii]}. That said, even this wildly popular supplement has been unable to escape close scrutiny and negative criticisms, which primarily surround the negative side effects of garcinia. A review of research surrounding the supplement showed linked it to diarrhoea and liver damage[xiv], and even sites that sell products containing garcinia tend to post warnings about side effects like dizziness, anxiety and nausea[xv]. For consumers who view weight loss as the ultimate Holy Grail, such effects are unlikely to act as deterrents. The market is definitely close to saturated with weight loss supplements as it is though, so similarly, unless something new can be brought to the fore, it will be difficult to make waves in this area.

All in all, the science behind the effectiveness of beauty supplements is high in quantity, but not very high in quality, and truly conclusive evidence for any of the products currently in the market has yet to emerge. Any manufacturer who can deliver a supplement that steadfastly stands up to the scrutiny of science will thus have a great advantage in navigating the beauty supplements market, though much research will definitely be needed in order to attain this.