Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Asia

MANY raw materials for natural and organic cosmetics are sourced in Asia, where many plant species are indigenous but are not cultivated and in fact often endangered and threatened by climate change. Ingredients suppliers who cater to the growing number of natural and organic cosmetic companies worldwide need to deal with physical and ethical standards throughout the supply chain. Manufacturers of natural and organic personal care products and cosmetic are held to the same socially responsible and sustainable standards, and are constantly challenged to source.

Some of the major issues and challenges facing the Asian cosmetics industry were presented and discussed at third 3rd edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Asia. Organised by Organic Monitor, the event took place on 11-13 November in Hong Kong. For the first time, a cosmetics summit tackled ways of encouraging ethical sourcing of green ingredients in Asia, with focal themes are sustainable sourcing & biodiversity, regulations & standards, and novel green ingredients. The aim of the summit, one of a series of international summits held annuallyby Organic Monitor, is to encourage sustainability in the beauty industry.

Amarjit Sahota, president and founder of Organic Monitor, said the summit is meant to encourage sustainability in the beauty by bringing together key stake-holders and debate major issues in a high level forum: Firstly, by addressing current challenges to sustainable development, and secondly, by showcasing best-practices and identify focus areas.

Shaheen Majeed, marketing director at science-based ingredients company, Sabinsa Corporation, gave the opening keynote address. Sabinsa has set up ethical sourcing and extensive cultivation programs in Asia. Commenting on the company’s interaction with farmers to ensure sustainability of quality rawmaterials from which Sabinsa manufacturers high quality, proprietary ingredients, Mr Majeed said, “We believe that to undertake the large-scale cultivation is important to the survival of endangered plants and biodiversity, andassure a stable supply of ethical ingredients.” Quoting Mahatma Ghandi, he added, “Earth provides enough to serve every man’s needs, but not for every man’s greed.”

Consumer barriers

A number of speakers also suggested that consumer behaviour is a major barrier – whether owing to low recognition of sustainable cosmetics or to awareness not translating into actual demand.Asia-Pacific comprises less than 10% of global green cosmetic sales, according to findings presented by Organic Monitor. Even in larger markets such as China and South Korea, where over 70% of consumers state they are aware of such issues, the Union for Ethical BioTrade said such awareness may not necessarily commit to buying natural and organic products – including cosmetics.

Furthermore, there remain many ethical questions about cosmetics in Asia; as well as the use of animal ingredients in cosmetics, animal-testing methods remain common.

Marketing channels a challenge

Discussions also centred on marketing and consumer issues related to green cosmetics.For ayurvedic brand Baidyanath, distribution is the major hurdle for green brands targeting the Indian market.

Mei Song of Plaza Premium Lounge, which operates airport-based premium lounges, called travel retail the ‘neglected channel’ for natural and organic cosmetics in Asia. In her paper, she said the growing middle-classes and increase in travel time in Asia made airport lounges theJunior