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CONSUMER behaviour needs to change for sustainability – this was one of the key messages from the third and most recent edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit in Asia (Nov 11-13, 2014). The aim of the summit is to encourage sustainability in the beauty industry by bringing together key stake-holders and debate major sustainability issues in a high-level forum.
Over 150 senior executives convened at each of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit in Hong Kong to discuss key issues affecting the sustainable development of the cosmetics industry.
A number of speakers suggested that consumer behaviour is a major barrier – whether owing to low recognition of sustainable cosmetics or to awareness not translating into actual demand.
Whilst operators are implementing a raft of sustainability initiatives, in general consumer awareness of what differentiates green cosmetics remains relatively low, experts said.
Even rising awareness of biodiversity and green issues amongst consumers doesn’t assure a rise in demand. For instance, Union for Ethical BioTrade said in its paper that whilst over 70% of Chinese and Korean consumers state they are aware of such issues, they may not necessarily commit to buying natural and organic products – including cosmetics.
This finding is supported by facts presented by Organic Monitor, organiser of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, stated that the Asia-Pacific comprises less than 10% of global green cosmetic sales. Furthermore, there remain many ethical questions about cosmetics in Asia; as well as the use of animal ingredients in cosmetics, animal-testing methods remain common.
Lack of consumer awareness was also cited as a factor behind the low take-up rate of sustainable palm oil. Although the industry is calling for more sustainable production, demand is not keeping with supply: only half of RSPO palm oil is sold as sustainable palm oil. Higher consumer awareness of sourcing issues could put pressure on companies to ethically source the vegetable oil, especially in Asia where palm oil plantations are causing deforestation and air pollution.
Marketing channels a challenge
Discussions also centred on marketing and consumer issues related to green cosmetics.
For ayurvedic brand Baidyanath, distribution is the major hurdle for green brands targeting the Indian market.
Mei Mei Song of Plaza Premium Lounge called travel retail the ‘neglected channel’ for natural and organic cosmetics in Asia. In her paper, she said the growing middle-classes and increase in travel time in Asia made airport lounges the ideal platform to educate consumers on such products. At the Hong Kong International airport, through which over 65 million people travel annually, the premium services company has set up wellness spas where organic skin care products are marketed to travel passengers, she said.